Beaufort is one of those great properties wherein it’s hard to decide which is more exciting—the memorably delicious wines, or the fascinating people and story behind them. Jacques Beaufort was his region’s first pioneer to earn organic certification (in 1969!) and his vineyards, now under the care of his children, remain some of the most meticulously farmed in all of Champagne. The family uses not one drop of copper or sulfur to combat vine disease—in Champagne, that’s the equivalent of surfing in California’s red triangle while wearing Lady Gaga’s famous “meat dress” from the 2010 MTV Music Awards. It’s more than a little risky. Careful use of copper and sulfur in the vineyard is often the only thing preventing growers from losing their entire harvest to mildew or rot in a challenging climate like that of Champagne. Still, the Beaufort family sticks to their guns. That means nothing but homemade herbal and plant mixtures, an unbelievable amount of personal attention, and countless man-hours in the bone-chilling vineyards. 

Jacques son, Amaury, is equally adamant about maintaining low-as-possible sulfur levels in his wines. So, while current-release wines remain perfectly clean, with zero flaws of any kind, they strike me as some of the most pure and unadulterated Champagnes ever bottled under the Beaufort label. Look no further if you wish to better understand the increasingly important terroir of southern Champagne’s Aube region. Today’s 2009 Brut Nature originates from a small vineyard near the family compound, just northeast of Chablis. The soil, like Chablis, is the same blend of kimmeridgian limestone and clay, and the site is planted to 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. As a sub-appellation, Polisy is unique in that it is densely forested, whereas most of Champagne has given to deforestation and agriculture for centuries. The natural environment of this area contributes to the complexity of terroir in the glass and the Beaufort family says the nearby forests and diversity of plants, insects, and predators provide necessary protection for their vines. This integrated system allows them to maintain their natural farming philosophy that is nearly impossible elsewhere in Champagne. It is no wonder these Champagnes are some of the most pristine and invigorating in the region.

Due to seven years of extended cellaring in old, neutral French barrels, today’s 2009 André Beaufort Brut Nature casts a brilliant golden glow. From the moment your nose hovers above the glass, there’s a wave of fleshy stone fruit, dried orange peel, smoky minerals, and an endless, nutty, spice-cake finish. You want layers and texture on the palate? This wine has it for days. In an era when many “in crowd” Champagnes are either joylessly lean or exhaustingly overwrought, this 2009 Beaufort effortlessly balances both precision and hedonism. It’s a fantastic, exciting wine to have in your glass. My mother and I emptied a bottle with ruthless, ninja-like efficiency before dinner last night. So, when the roast chicken finally emerged from my oven a few minutes later, we had no choice but to open a second bottle! This is just one of those special wines. Drink it now at 50-55 degrees from large Burgundy stems, or feel free to cellar for many, many years to come if you wish for a more savory, exotic and softer wine. Beaufort is revered across the globe for bottling some of the most long lived wines in all of Champagne and I have not one doubt that today’s bottle will be knocking Champagne lovers out of their seats well into the 2030s. Enjoy!