In the late 1990s, Madame de Lencquesaing, owner of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Pichon-Lalande for simplicity’s sake), had the opportunity to purchase the nearby estate of Château Bernadotte, and she pounced on the opportunity. Although the 1860s estate was in disrepair at the time, its sprawling vineyards were buried in high-quality soils, and this is what excited Madame de Lencquesaing—especially with it historically being an affordable Cru Bourgeois. With their elite status and deep pockets, Pichon-Lalande began heavily investing in Château Bernadotte and in a matter of years, they were crafting terroir-expressive wines that drank far above their humble price tag—this 2004 showcases that to the highest degree. In recent times, it has been sold off to a group of investors, but none of that affects the phenomenal bottle of wine we’re selling today!

The estate’s dozens of hectares are almost planted evenly to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a tiny proportion of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. They grow on a plateaued ridge consisting of the coveted gravel of Haut-Médoc along with sand and clay. In 2004, all grapes were harvested by hand and a cool vinification occurred in large stainless steel vats. The resulting wine then aged in all oak barrels, 30% new, for approximately 16 months. 

Bernadotte’s ‘04 reveals a nearly opaque, dark garnet core with light garnet-orange hues towards the rim. Impressively, you’ll find mature notes that would be found in top, back-vintage Pauillac: black and red plums, cassis, black currants, dried cherries, sandalwood, leather, cigar wrapper, dried herbs, baking spices, cocoa dust, and a hint of wild mushrooms. The palate, which is medium-plus bodied and ultra-classic, flaunts impressive vigor with well-structured tannins and powerful underlying intensity that builds towards a mineral and earth-driven finish. Still, the wine is far from dense and brooding—it possesses beautiful mid-palate elegance while drinking gracefully from start to finish. Prior to opening, stand this bottle upright for 24 hours before decanting off its sediment and serving in Bordeaux stems around 60-65 degrees. And, for all you collectors, stow a few of these beauties away and watch it evolve even further over the next 5-10+ years if kept well. This is a mature treat that has an Haut-Médoc name, but Pauillac-level pedigree. Enjoy next to a succulent medium-rare ribeye that’s been liberally treated with a savory porcini mushroom rub. Cheers!