If looking at a vineyard map of Chablis, you’ll see a common theme with its Grand Crus: They’re all clustered along the Seine River soaking up the sun on perfectly exposed hillsides. Today’s “Fourchaume” may not be one of these seven Grand Crus, but it’s one that draws heavy comparisons: Domaine Corinne Perchaud’s two plots—which total two acres—sit directly downstream, with the exact same soil composition, sun exposure, and elevation.
As far as Premier Crus (there are 40 sites), “Fourchaume” is one of the select few that can challenge and potentially outclass the big boys. Common descriptors when drinking top-level Chablis are power, depth, and precision—a trifecta that lives on a tightrope and can be thrown out of balance with the slightest change, especially in a cold, marginal region like Chablis. In the warm 2015 vintage, however, the best vineyards thrived more than ever and that’s why today’s “Fourchaume” is such an unbelievable value. It fuses liveliness and refreshment with an immense concentration of fruit alongside Chablis’ signature chalk/oyster shell minerality. This combination of vintage, vineyard, and price is seldom (if ever) seen—it’s a must have in my book.
The Perchaud domaine was founded in the “roaring” 1920s, or, as the French called it, “Années folles” (the crazy years). It wasn’t until 60 years later, however, when Corinne Perchaud and her husband Jean-Pierre Grossot started working at the domaine, representing the third generation of winemakers. Today, along with the help of their daughter, Eve, they farm 45 acres (12 of which are Premier Cru) and craft superb, mineral-driven Chablis with a heavy focus on lift and precision; almost all of their wines are aged in stainless steel. Though sustainability has been a large part of their philosophy for more than 20 years (i.e. organic fertilizers, regular plowing, manual de-budding and pruning), they are now in the process of achieving organic certification.
Perchaud has a bevy of holdings—all family-owned—throughout the region, but only two small plots within today’s Premier Cru “
Fourchaume.” The pair of them total just under two acres with vines that are approximately 35 years old. Sustainable farming has been in place here for decades and grapes are always hand harvested before being sent to their winery in the nearby town of Fleys—just five miles away. The grapes are sorted and gently pressed into stainless steel tanks where both alcoholic and full malolactic fermentation takes place. It then ages on its lees for one year before being bottled with a light filtration.
In the glass, Perchaud’s 2015 “Fourchaume” displays a brilliant straw-yellow core with platinum highlights leading out to a clear rim. A tad reductive (oxygen-starved) at first, it needs a brief 30 minute decant before showing its true colors. This Premier Cru then opens up with lovely white and yellow floral aromatics with a touch of honeysuckle, followed by crushed chalk, oyster shell, Key lime, Bosc pear, green apple skin, quince, yellow apple, and lemon curd. The concentrated and textured palate reveals supple fruits with just a touch of green mango peel in the background. Of course, Chablis’ classic mineral intensity builds alongside bursts of refreshing acidity and it finishes lip-smackingly long. After allowing a quick breather, this ‘15 Chablis is fantastic to drink now—simply pour in all-purpose stems around 50-55 degrees and enjoy—but if you can swing it, find some room in your cellar for a few bottles, at it will continue to improve over the next decade-plus. Serve next to Coquilles St-Jacques (a.k.a scallops) poached in a white wine with a mushroom purée. It is yet another truly classic pairing that must be tried. Cheers!