The first thing to know about Bordeaux is that it is France’s most productive wine region. The second thing to know is that Bordeaux is much more than just the “classified growth” châteaux named back in 1855, which still tend to dominate most conversations about the region.
Bordeaux is an absolute trove of great wine at great prices—if you know where to look, and, as we learned firsthand, if you’re willing to taste through scores of wines in search of the true gems. We put in several grueling days tasting hundreds of Bordeaux in search of wines like this 2001 Pomerol from Château Haut Ferrand. It’s a perfect expression of mature Pomerol at its peak, thanks to being stored in the same cold warehouse in Bordeaux since release nearly 15 years ago. Because it was dwarfed in recognition (and price) by the “vintage of the century” that was 2000, 2001 doesn’t get as much attention, which to me is an opportunity: ’01 has become one of my favorite Bordeaux vintages of the last few decades, not least because of the relative value of its wines. In fact, I’ll take balance over blockbuster any day, and wines like this Haut Ferrand illustrate why: it’s a supple, perfectly proportioned wine that epitomizes classic Right Bank Bordeaux. And what a price for such a profound (and physically sound) mature red! We bought as much as we could so you could stock up, as this wine will continue to deliver for years to come.
Haut-Ferrand is one of two Pomerol properties owned by the Gasparoux family. Its sister property, Château Ferrand, is slightly larger and planted on the more southerly reaches of the Pomerol plateau, where soils contain more gravel and sand (and where the grand vin of the house contains up to 40% Cabernet Franc). Haut Ferrand, as its name suggests (haut = “top,” or “upper”), is in the central/northern section of Pomerol, where there is more clay mixed with gravel and where the Merlot grape thrives. The Haut-Ferrand vineyards cover 4.5 hectares and are planted to 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, which, as is typical in Bordeaux, represents the composition of the wine. This 2001 was matured for 18 months in French oak barriques, one-third of which were new.
Among the many charms of this 2001 is its utility in flummoxing friends and colleagues who claim not to like Merlot; if they don’t like this one, they simply don’t like wine. In the glass it’s a deep garnet red with some bricking at the rim, with a nose that oozes classic Pomerol: black plum, dried cherry, bay leaf, cedar, vintage leather, tobacco leaf, and dried herbs. The mid-palate is plush and silky, the tannins as fine-grained as espresso grounds, and it’s the interplay of sweet and savory that makes it so appealing. Many ‘modern’ Pomerols are characterized by a very plummy, very extracted fruit component, but this one is generous while also being quite elegant and perfumed. It’s in absolutely perfect condition at this age and should continue to offer peak drinking for another 5+ years. At this price, you simply cannot go wrong. Quickly decant it for sediment just before serving in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. Please note that it does not need much air; it should blossom within 10-15 minutes and drink beautifully for an hour or more. The attached recipe is a suitably old-school accompaniment, and I for one can’t wait to try them together. Cheers!
