The young man behind Les Trois Chênes, Emmanuel Darnaud, is emerging as something of a prodigy. Lauded by critics including, Rhône expert John Livingstone-Learmonth, Robert Parker Jr., as well as Jeb Dunnuck, his wines now grace dozens of Michelin-starred wine lists around the world. For such notoriety, Darnaud’s journey did not begin all that long ago. After a rewarding four-year apprenticeship under traditional Hermitage legend, Bernard Faurie, Emmanuel launched his own label in 2001 with only 1.5 hectares to produce his first vintage. Although his holdings have grown to over 15 hectares, he is still crafting his wines with the same meticulous care as he did from his first small holdings. Les Trois Chênes, which translates to ‘the three oaks,’ is named after three oak trees that grace one of Darnaud’s oldest vineyards. The particular parcels for this wine are blessed with alluvial stone outcroppings amidst brown clay subsoil that adds to the depth and character of this wine.

 

It’s taken more than a stroke of luck and old parcels to garner the success Emmanuel has achieved. Like an auteur of the vines, Emmanuel tends to every miniscule detail in the vineyard and the cellar. While farming lutte raisonnée, which translates to “reasoned fight,” he also adheres to strict leaf management with an eye to more aeration and exposure; he alternates cover crop to reduce the impact of machinery, although harvest is conducted manually each year. Harvested fruit is chilled then subjected to cold pre-fermentation before it is fermented for three weeks while being crushed by foot, which is a most gentle and time consuming practice. After fermentation, the wine is aged for fourteen months in a mix of mostly neutral large and small barrels. As a result, Emmanuel crafts a beautiful expression of Syrah that boasts incredibly soft tannins, full voluptuous fruit and a remarkable balance that drinks like a slightly softer version of a top-quality Hermitage. The Northern Rhône is the most classic and famous region in the world for the Syrah varietal. Even if you don’t normally drink Syrah, this is a wine that will undoubtedly convert you to a lover of these wines.

 

This 2013 Crozes-Hermitage, Les Trois Chene, shows a deep inky purple in the glass with magenta reflections on the rim. The concentrated nose boasts a myriad of black fruits including: blackberry, black currant, black cherry and black plum. The fruit is laced with classic aromas of olive tapenade, wild herbs and violets with a hint of smoked meats. The dense palate is layered with fruit and packed with immense concentration. Subtle wild berry notes join the magnificent array of black fruits on the palate and are completed with spice, smoky meat, tar and herbs for a satisfying finish that lingers on the palate forever. This wine will age incredibly well over the next decade, probably peaking about 2018-2025, but is absolutely superb at the moment. If consuming now decant for a minimum of 1 hour and serve in large Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. As the wine gets over 5 years of age, I prefer to switch to Burgundy stems. This wine will be simply magnificent with any smoked, barbecued or braised meat of your choice. I personally recommend this braised leg of lamb which is an absolute classic with Syrah; however, substitute red wine for white wine in the recipe for optimal pairing results. Bon Appétit!