There is no better interpreter of this multifaceted geology than Prager’s winemaker, Toni Bodenstein, who is locally known as, “the terroirist,” for his incredible research of soil types and mapping of the unique qualities of each vineyard.  Weingut Prager has a lengthy and incredibly respected history as one of the top producers in Wachau as well as all of Austria. In researching the estate, they discovered, “the first documented mention of the estate, dating from 1302, mentions the place name ritzling, which has given rise to some speculation that the Riesling variety may in fact have its origin in the Wachau.” Today’s particular Riesling hails from an extremely important site of the estate, the 8.4-acre Steinriegl vineyard. The vines here range from twenty to forty years of age and enjoy high elevation, compact and complex soils of gneiss and lime silicate marble while being some of the steepest terraces on the entire estate. (See photo)

Today’s 2013 Prager Riesling, Federspiel, Steinriegl falls into the middle of the three ripeness levels of the Wachau: Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd. The level I drink most often, Federspiel, considered the most classic style, is typically medium bodied and a bit more textured than the Steinfeder at 11.5-12.5% alcohol by volume. Toni, who inarguably makes some of the most incredible Riesling in the world, was blessed with the excellent 2013 vintage, which produced a superb wine with very high acid that allows it to age gracefully for decades. This incredibly terroir-driven wine was slowly fermented to dryness at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks for 42 days; it was then aged in tank for eight months, bottled, then sat for six months in the bottle before release. 

 

This incredibly aromatic nose boasts green apple, white peach pit and under-ripe pineapple core laced with kaffir lime leaves along with fresh lemon and lime blossoms. The palate contributes green mango skin, green apple core, lime zest and is driven by crystalline, laser beam minerality and thirst quenching acidity that is simply extraordinary. This wine should be served at about cellar temp to capture the ethereal aromatics, if served too cold just out of the refrigerator the acidity will seem out of balance as the wine is so dry. This white will compliment a wide variety of fresh Asian cuisine; anything that is constructed with basil, mint or cilantro will create an outstanding pairing. A few suggestions include a cold Beef Vietnamese Salad, Thai Chicken Larb, or even Choucroute-Garnie. If you want to go a more traditional route and eat what they would in the Vienna, this Tefelspitz (Boiled Beef) recipe is unreal. It was the best meal I had in Austria and will allow you to experience the amazing cuisine from the region. When paired with this mineral driven Riesling, you will want to get on a plane to Lower Austria to tour the region, and you should.