With a temperate climate, seriously steep hillsides, the cooling and reflective influence of the Mosel River, and the slate soils, Busch’s vineyards exhibit the perfect terroir for Riesling. In the past, many producers focused on sweeter styles of this incredible varietal; in recent decades, talented producers like Busch have recognized the true potential of this honest grape, forgoing sweeter styles for more captivating dry styles. Busch, alongside his wife and son, produce many styles of Riesling from their Mosel vineyards, but their 2012 Vom Roten Schiefer Riesling, which translates to “from red slate,” is a unique bottling. The name refers to the distinct red slate soils in which the vineyards are planted. Though the Mosel is known for its slate soils, red slate near the village of Pünderich is quite uncommon. Lucky for Busch, this particular soil type produces an appealing, spicy aromatic profile and a beautiful, mineral-driven palate with an incredible texture. What’s more, is that the vineyards have been farmed organically and biodynamically since 1986. The majority of 70+ year old Riesling vines have a southeastern sun exposure, and are situated between a large forest at the top of the steep hillside and the Mosel River below. These conditions lend themselves well in the production of Riesling, because in the glass, this wine reflects its terroir unlike any other grape variety.
The 2012 Vom Roten Schiefer Riesling is a beautiful sight to behold—a concentrated, light golden straw core moves to green reflections on the rim. The aromatics are pure, energetic and piercing with concentrated aromas of white peach pit, green apple, green mango, green pineapple core, lime blossoms, crushed slate and petrol. The palate mimics the nose with additional notes of kaffir lime zest, exotic spices and an enchanting, crushed slate minerality driving the endless finish. Ideally decant this wine and do not consume it too cold, roughly 50 degrees or so, just below cellar temperature. Made from 100% Riesling grapes from 70+ year old vines, this Riesling is a prestigious bottling that is worthy enough to drink on its own. But of course, this varietal is one of the most versatile for food pairing—so I would advise opening this bottle with a great
Thai fish curry, full of kaffir lime leaves.