If there is one agreed-upon Premier Cru in Chablis that stands at the top, it is Montée de Tonnerre. Offering opulent concentration, minerality of complex perfection and ageability that is unrivaled in its class, the wines of this special site can easily garner over $150 when produced by the famous Domaine Raveneau. Perpetually touted by critics as Chablis’ greatest Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre appropriately translates to, “thunder mountain,” which is fitting for this crisp and complex nectar of the gods. Perched on the right bank of the River Serein, just below the famous unbroken strip of Chablis Grand Crus, Montée de Tonnerre is nestled across a slender ravine from the famous Les Blanchots. Thanks to this ideal locale, this special pocket of Chablis enjoys comparable aspect, sun exposure and the rich Kimmeridgian limestone that garners Grand Cru Chablis’ loyal following amongst sommeliers and Chablis lovers around the world. The result is a Chablis with unparalleled richness coupled with agility and ample minerality.
If pressed to name a Premier Cru to rival the touted Montée de Tonnerre, it would be Montmains in the hands of this agile and astute producer. Situated opposite Montée de Tonnerre on the most advantageous portion of the left bank on the River Serein, Montmains has been an important site since at least the early 1500s. It enjoys excellent sun exposure on its southeast-facing slope, an important factor in the northern locale, as well as an intense concentration of Kimmeridgian soil, which translates in the glass as a complex wine that offers one of the most mineral-driven experiences in all of Chablis.
Since 1897, Domaine Gerard Duplessis has grown and produced Chablis from their small family estate. Gerard Duplessis passed the torch to the sixth generation - his son, Lilian, in 1999. Lilian almost immediately converted their holdings to organic viticulture. Thanks to Lilian’s guidance, Domaine Gerard Duplessis is currently one of a small number of organic estates in Chablis; this is exceedingly impressive in a region that typically depends on conventional chemical farming due to challenges the cold, damp weather of the appellation brings. To work the vineyards with an organic approach is incredibly labor intensive. The harvest’s bounty undergoes alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel utilizing only natural yeasts. The wine spends twelve months on its lees before it is racked into older, neutral French oak for six months. The wine is then bottled with incredibly low sulfur levels. The resulting wine is incredible and a true star of the appellation.
These wines each exhibit a concentrated light gold core moving to pale green and gold reflections on the rim. They both deliver complex aromatics of classic Chablis including fresh yellow apples, white peach, orange blossoms, lemon zest and spun honey. The palate boasts flavors reminiscent of the nose with a complex experience that is full, refreshing and savory all at the same time. Both of these wines deliver Chablis at its most exquisite. However, the characteristics of each site are remarkably distinctive. Montée de Tonnerre delivers a bigger wine with an incredible richness of texture that balanced with agility in the form of acidity and precise minerality. Montmains, while possessing beautiful texture as well, delivers a profound and distinct mineral-driven experience that rivals the best of Chablis. These wines, thanks in part to the 2011 vintage, are built to cellar for fifteen-plus years in the correct conditions. Their unique personalities will continue to evolve, but one thing's certain—these wines will end up being treasures of your wine collection if you do decide to let them collect dust in the cold, dark corner of your cellar. Beautiful now and showing just a slight touch of development, I recommend decanting for a minimum of one hour and serving no cooler than 55 degrees to allow the profound aromatics their full voice.
