Whichever word you care to use—classic, benchmark, touchstone—the wines of Rudi Pichler are essential drinking for anyone who appreciates the mineral-infused precision of Austrian white wine. As is always the case with Rudi Pichler’s Grüner Veltliner, the mouthwatering appeal is its extra gear: There’s plenty of light, zippy (and perfectly delicious) Grüner Veltliner out there, but this one is considerably more substantial, as indicated by its Smaragd designation (the highest ripeness classification on the Wachau region’s proprietary scale). There are layers of savory depth and heaps of deeply-etched minerality hiding beneath its playful aromatics of citrus blossoms, green apple, peach skin, grapefruit zest, arugula, river stones, white pepper, and snap pea. Still, the prickly zip of acidity slices through it all and creates a cleansing sensation on the finish. It’s simultaneously rich, layered, and refreshing—exactly what I search for in top Grüner. Taste this layered ’19 once and you’ll understand why Grüner Veltliner is so beloved by sommeliers. Serve in all-purpose stems around 45-50 degrees and serve with just about anything on earth. We’d recommend preparing some ginger-lemongrass pork lettuce wraps and make sure you secure enough bottles to last you over the next couple of years. There is always a time and place for Pichler!