When it comes to Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, home of the world’s most brutally expensive and venerated bottlings of Chardonnay, the Morey surname runs deeper than the Mariana Trench. We’re talking powerhouse domaines led by a mix of legends, avant-gardes, and up-and-coming superstars like Pierre-Yves, Caroline, Jean-Marc, Sylvain, Michel, Thomas, and today’s Vincent Morey. Really, it doesn’t matter how long you’ve been a subscriber or how often you check our emails: Our infatuation with these wines is impossible to ignore, and no matter the name preceding “Morey,” we lunge at the opportunity to showcase them. Without question, these are among Burgundy’s premier wines, and today’s perfectly mature, outrageously affordable 2012 from Vincent et Sophie Morey epitomizes why.
Aside from their “certified” surname, the sacred raw material in this bottle hails from “Les Charmois,” an esteemed Premier Cru that hugs the border of Chassagne-Montrachet and lies mere moments from the awe-inducing Grand Crus of Montrachet. Secondly, finding properly mature, perfectly stored white Burgundy is becoming a taller order by the day, especially if you desire one that refuses to cross the $50 threshold. So, if like me, you live for richly layered, energizing, mineral-loaded white Burgundy that’s in its absolute prime, today is one of the very rare chances to acquire a few bottles. If this doesn’t outperform some of your friends’ $75++ bottlings, I’ll be shocked because finding a better combination of pedigree, age, terroir, and price is no easy feat.
Coming from the deeply rooted Morey family tree, Vincent Morey and his wife Sophie set out to launch their own domaine in 2007 from an enviable collection of inherited, heirloom parcels. Although one of the newer kids on the block, these are the types of producers a savvy buyer follows closely. This is a family that’s (1) steeped in farming/winemaking expertise, (2) equipped with prime real estate, and (3) dedicated to providing affordable wines. Domaines like Vincent et Sophie Morey are the reason I will never tire of “working the fringes” in Burgundy; it’s what I live for!
Working the so-called “fringes” extends into the vineyard as well, and when you can find a combination of both, you’ve got yourself some serious fringe benefits: The Premier Cru of “Les Charmois,” which is nominally in the village of Saint-Aubin, hugs the border with Chassagne-Montrachet and is mere moments from the Montrachet Grand Crus! This special site enjoys a south-southeast aspect and a reportedly higher percentage of clay in the soils, so its wines tend to skew a little richer. That said, there is some altitude and cooling breezes that boost freshness and tension.
Vincent and Sophie’s sliver of old (~60 years) and young (~10 years) vines in “Les Charmois” hardly amount to anything, just .36 hectares, so they make sure to treat them like the precious gems they are: All farming is carried out sustainably and a small team is employed come harvest to ensure each cluster is handpicked. In the winery, the wine is entirely fermented and aged in French barrels, 40% new, and bottling occurs just shy of one year after harvest.
Today’s opulent and live-wire Chardonnay is is everything I love about Premier Cru Burgundy. I had to convince myself after every sip that the price was correct because this crushes almost all of the under-$50 competition. The nose blasts out high-toned aromas of golden apples, toasted nuts, lemon curd, pineapple core, apricot, flint, crushed stone, lime blossoms, and wonderfully interwoven baking spices. On the palate, multifarious layers meet you with deep yellow-fruit richness and vibrant precision that causes all of your tastebuds to start watering. At eight years old, this is singing a vibrant, sonorous tune that’s fueled by a finely crushed mineral presence. While not a “big” wine, it is certainly profound and monumental in its ability to mimic the pricey labels that lie next door. Enjoy now and over the next couple of years in large Burgundy stems around 50-55 degrees. It’ll thrill longtime Burgundy drinkers and downright stun any and all of those who are new to this elite, world-famous arena. Cheers!
