The Déthunes have been farming and crafting Champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889 but their winemaking lineage can be traced back to 1610. They are a highly respected Récoltant-Manipulant (indicated by the tiny initials “RM” on the label), or grower-producer, which means they own, farm, and craft wines solely from their estate. While Champagne Houses (Négociant-Manipulants) typically make wines by purchasing grapes from various farmers, a “RM” controls every aspect of farming and winemaking from start to finish.
Today, Pierre Déthune and his wife, Sophie, tend to 17 organically-tended acres throughout Ambonnay and they are adamant about respecting nature: organic fertilizers are used, cover crops are planted, solar panels have been installed, and a rainwater collection system has been implemented, making them one of Champagne’s leading champions of sustainability. This special cuvée is 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay harvested entirely from the 2014 vintage. Fermentation (both alcoholic and full-malolactic) occurred in 205-liter barrels sourced from a local cooper and after bottling in early 2015, the wine aged in their hand-carved, centuries-old chalk cellar for over five years. It was then disgorged and corked without any filtration. An interesting note: Instead of adding a standard dosage consisting of beet sugar, Pierre uses MCR, or moût concentré rectifié which is super-concentrated grape must reduced down to its base sugars. It’s rarely found in Champagne, but several growers are now using it with the mindset that it creates a more neutral and consistent sweetener.
Over many years and dozens of drained bottles, I’ve found Paul Déthune’s wines flaunt their impressive depth and invitingly broad layers best after warming and opening up for 15-30 minutes in larger stems. The result is reminiscent of a fantastic Burgundy. This rare 2013 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs erupts with atomized minerality and energized orchard fruit to a degree that I’ve never experienced in Déthune’s Chardonnays. There is incredibly vibrancy and profundity to each sip but with it comes luxurious layers of ripe yellow apple, pineapple core, white peach, Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, honeysuckle, vanilla bean, brioche, toasted almonds, crushed chalk, and a hint of exotic spice. I’d lean towards putting this in the full-bodied category of Champagne purely based on the power, tension, and structure it exudes—not because it’s excessively creamy or lush (it’s not). Enjoy one now over several hours and stash your others for long aging— we think this will be a savory, remarkable tour de force in 5-10 years. Cheers!