The Aldo Conterno property is synonymous with the “Bussia” vineyard in Monforte—one of the largest and best-known sites in all of Barolo, of which Cicala, Colonello, and Romirasco are small, contiguous parcels the sit near the crest of the hill. There are subtle differences in soils and aspects among the three, although their overall orientation is south/southwest and the soils are bluish marls rich in calcium carbonate and iron. These are powerful, concentrated, long-aging wines from old vines—an average of 50 years across the three—and they are treated more or less equally in the cellar, undergoing 28-30 months’ aging in large Slavonian oak casks.

The power of these wines may be unrivaled anywhere in the wine world: they are brooding, smoky, leathery beasts in their youth, evolving beautifully over time to reveal all the toe-curling charms of the Nebbiolo grape: dried cherry, tobacco, blood orange peel, rose petals, anise, and so, so much more. A properly stored bottle will age for 30 years with ease, and we’d recommend forgetting about these for at least ten before diving in. If your budget allows, these are can’t-miss additions to a great cellar.