Over the last few vintages, we’ve gone deeper and deeper into the vast portfolio of Burgundy wines produced at the venerable Remoissenet estate in Beaune. Just last year, my business partner Brandon and I got to tour the estate’s hand-dug, Medieval-era caves with veteran cellar hand Bernard Répolt (scoring a pristine stash of 1967 Chambolle-Musigny in the process), and, just a few weeks ago, we had a long and informative lunch with Remoissenet’s estate manager, Pierre-Antoine Rovani (well-known from his tenure at Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate).
This property is not only a de facto museum of Burgundy history, it’s a modern, ambitious winery that’s been on a roll of late. Surely the stellar 2015 vintage helped, but this Bourgogne Rouge is exactly the kind of Bourgogne Rouge a property with Remoissenet’s credentials must deliver—namely, one with more depth, complexity, and polish than is typically expected from this category. That’s what great estates do: they put as much care into the lowest-priced wines as anything else. In 2015, lots of Bourgogne Rouge punched above its weight, and this is one of the best values of them all; it’s one to grab by the case and re-visit often. I expect it’ll be a trusted go-to in my house for several years to come.
Our recent tasting and lunch with Pierre was a modern epic, to be sure: Remoissenet makes a very large range of wines—both estate-grown and négociant (i.e. purchased fruit) bottlings. The property is perhaps better-known for its historic négociant operation, and the trove of wines from every appellation imaginable that still resides in those caves in Beaune is a sight to behold. Truth be told, the house’s reputation had slipped in bit in more recent times, but the arrival of a new ownership group in 2005 helped set it on a new course. They’ve strengthened their relationships with their many contract growers, keeping a closer eye on both quality and sustainable farming practices, while managing their own estate vineyards (about 32 acres, most of which are in Beaune) according to biodynamic principles. Combine Rovani’s charisma, tasting acumen, and deep knowledge with “Bernie” Répolt’s wisdom and winemaker Claudie Jobard’s ‘non-interventionist’ approach, and you’ve got quite a team—and the results, exemplified by this wine, speak for themselves.
This Bourgogne Rouge is a “négociant wine,” made with grapes sourced from old-vine, village-level vineyards in Pommard and Volnay. Jobard fermented the wine in open-topped wooden vats using only ambient yeasts, then aged it in old French oak barrels of 350-liter capacity (a little bigger than a standard barrique). In the glass, it’s a deep, saturated ruby (a hallmark of 2015) with hints of purple at the rim. Its aromas are bright and perfumed, headlined by ripe fraise de bois, red currant, and black cherry mixed with savory notes of underbrush, dried flowers, and baking spices. There’s good mid-palate weight (another hallmark of 2015) and silky tannins, with lots of acidity to drive the wine to a fruity, perfumed finish. It’s ready to open now and serve in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. Decant it 30-45 before service to give it a chance to open up, and yes, do not hesitate to cellar a few. Its best years are still ahead of it, and I envision it hitting its peak between 2020-2025. This is a pitch-perfect “house” Burgundy that’ll jump between fish and meat with ease; it may, in fact, be one to consider for Thanksgiving, so we’ve gone ahead and picked out a great turkey recipe for it. Maybe a trial run soon? Enjoy!