Longtime subscribers to SommSelect know that this isn’t our first time offering a library-release wine from Napa’s iconic Frog’s Leap Winery. Legendary winemaker/proprietor John Williams has become a good friend, and we’ve been privileged to taste (and drink!) Frog’s Leap wines going back to the estate’s very beginnings in the early 1980s.
To their considerable credit, Williams and his Frog’s Leap team have maintained a library of back vintages that is second to none in the Napa Valley, and knowing that such a world-class stash of wine is right in my backyard, so to speak, is a source of pride. We are sometimes criticized for being a little “Eurocentric” here at SommSelect, so let me say this unequivocally: Today’s 1990 Merlot, like the other Frog’s Leap releases we’ve been fortunate to offer, stands alongside the greatest Merlot-based wines of Bordeaux and beyond. Over the years I’ve blind-tasted these wines and thought them to be from big name châteaux in Margaux, Pomerol or Saint-Émilion, only to be pleasantly surprised to see the Frog’s Leap label revealed. Having never moved from the winery’s cool cellars, today’s parcel of 1990 Merlot displays both the power of the vintage and the purity and elegance that comes from conscientious organic/biodynamic dry farmed vines. Frog’s Leap truly is one of California’s great ‘legacy’ brands and this perfectly mature red is poised to blow your mind. We’re thrilled to be able to offer up to six bottles per customer until our stock runs out.
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PLEASE NOTE: We also have a small supply of MAGNUM bottles of this 1990, priced at $300/bottle. These bottles are available only for standard shipping, not build-a-case. To purchase Magnums, please click here.]
Truly one of the most iconic producers of Merlot outside of Bordeaux, John Williams grew up on a dairy farm and eventually expanded his agricultural studies to include vines and wine. He fell in love with winemaking, completed his Master's at UC Davis, then worked his first winery job at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars for the vintage that won the famous Judgment of Paris tasting. He teamed up with Larry Turley to start Frog’s Leap in 1981 and the rest is history. In 1988, Frog’s Leap was among the very first estates to be certified organic in the Napa Valley appellation. John purchased Larry’s interest in Frog’s Leap in 1993 and continued to push the envelope for quality and sustainability: he installed solar power and practices dry farming, which not only conserves water and reduces soil erosion but promotes resilient, healthy vines as well. A true visionary, Williams crafts his wine in a traditional, elegant style that is on par with the quality of the greatest Bordeaux but delivers the unique voice of the Napa Valley.
The 1990 vintage is known for powerful, concentrated wines from a vintage that started out wet and shaky, resulting in a short crop. There’s a still a bass note of ripe, youthful fruit at the core of this wine, which is as much a testament to its ideal storage conditions as the vintage itself. In the glass, it displays a still-vibrant dark garnet core moving to brick-orange at the rim, with complex aromas that leap from the glass in waves: black plum, red currant, dried black cherry, bay leaf, vintage leather, raw cacao, pipe tobacco, damp mushroom and a well-integrated dash of oak spice carry over to a velvety, medium-plus-bodied palate. Now in its peak drinking window and only gaining aromatic complexity and texture as it evolves in the glass, I’d suggest standing the bottle upright (in a cool place) the day before and pulling the cork a few minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems. Pour slowly and carefully (to avoid agitating sediment), and drink the same way, taking time to savor its palate-enveloping richness and long, savory, aromatic finish. If you are sediment-phobic, decant it slowly over a light source right before service so as not to accelerate the aeration too much. There’s still lots of life left in this wine, and I wouldn’t hesitate to put it in a lineup alongside Bordeaux bottles from the same vintage. Score one for Napa Valley here—and pair it with something that shares its brilliant melding of sweet and savory. The attached duck recipe looks like a winner. Cheers!