The spirit of Jacques Reynaud, the godfather of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is always present. When the legendary founder of Château Rayas died suddenly in 1997, his wife asked their nephew, Emmanuel Reynaud, to take the reins at both Château Rayas and Château Fonsalette. Already making wines at his father’s Château des Tours, Emmanuel agreed. He is somewhat reclusive and can be found working his vineyards at most any time of day, every day. Emmanuel does not revel in the fame and notoriety that come with making such sought-after and acclaimed wines, but he continues to carry the mantle of his famous forebears, producing hauntingly aromatic wines at his three estates: Château Rayas, Château des Tours  Château de Fonsalette. In the glass, this 100% Syrah is inky ruby with profuse dark berries and graphite on the nose. The dark fruit continues to envelop the palate with cracked black peppercorns, black olives, cardamom, and powdered licorice. With over a decade of bottle age, this effort will show incredibly well in a lineup of library Châteauneuf-du-Pape.