In lauding the previous vintage of today’s wine, I mentioned that if one bottle ever deserved the title of “unicorn”, then Soldera is it. This excruciatingly limited label is a mandatory trophy for every serious blue chip collector. The
Wine Advocate describes it as one of the great experiences in the world of wine” and “utterly spellbinding.
Vinous’ Antonio Galloni writes that these are “some of the most hauntingly beautiful, profound wines anywhere in the world.”
If you can fathom the overwhelming appetite generated by such unanimous and overwhelming praise, then consider that six consecutive yet-to-be-released vintages of this famously scarce treasure were almost
entirely eradicated six years ago, leaving only a few hundred cases to satisfy the entire world for much of the next decade. In one night, prices skyrocketed and acquiring a single bottle became a far-off fantasy for most consumers. So while drinking Soldera is always life altering, this exquisite and ready-to-drink 2009 vintage now feels even more precious and special than before!
Jancis Robinson MW is not hyperbolizing when she states that Gianfranco Soldera is Brunello di Montalcino’s “most celebrated producer.” Even though Soldera has long since dispensed with the appellation name and DOCG collar on his bottles, his wines remain the most revered in the region. The Soldera mystique is a product of many variables, including the famously paradoxical and cantankerous 81-year-old Gianfranco himself. Ever dismissive of hierarchy and elitism in the wine business, Soldera often refuses to take visits from critics or fellow legends of the trade. He has vocally and publicly attacked his neighbors in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG for illegally adding Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to help pander their wines to critics and modern palates. Still, his kindness and generosity with aspiring young winemakers in the region and “regular joe” visitors to Tuscany is well-known. He is also an active philanthropist, proudly supporting children's charities across the world. I was honored to share an intimate meal with Gianfranco two years ago and can confirm that it’s all true: he is fiery, opinionated, and polarizing, but there lies an incredibly sweet and gentle man behind it all.
As a viticulturist and master of the cellar, Gianfranco is renowned for his obsessively scientific approach. For almost half a century, Soldera has farmed his small parcel of Sangiovese vines with microscopic attention to detail and never one drop of chemical herbicides or fertilizer. He employs elaborate underground soil monitoring and above ground cameras to observe and track vines’ health and evolution. The property could easily be managed by a few workers, but Soldera employs a small army to help realize his vision. As a result, his estate in Montalcino is as verdant and thriving a landscape as one will ever encounter in Tuscany. I visit dozens of organic vineyards each year but there are only a handful that are stewarded with the care and attention seen at Soldera. And the same goes for Gianfranco’s cellar happenings too: long, indigenous fermentations and aging for 63 whopping months in
large, Slavonian oak botti.
In describing today’s absolutely screaming 2009 vintage, I won’t hide from sharing that this is a year in which some lesser Brunello estates fall short. That said, this property is a special, meticulously cared for site, and there’s nothing but fireworks in this bottle. Next, I want to make the always necessary point that Soldera is not a dark, dripping-in-sweet-oak-and-alcohol Super Tuscan. Frankly, it’s the opposite. Even in a sun-drenched vintage like 2009, Soldera is built to steal the heart of those who crave elegant Grand Cru Burgundy and the most delicate antique Barolo and Barbaresco. You will never find the heavy-handed chocolate or berry liqueur aromas that dominate many high-priced Tuscan reds, but instead a detailed, pointillist masterpiece of black truffles, dried flowers, wild herbs, and a fascinating diversity of savory red fruits. True terroir—a palpable sense of soil and site—is felt deeply in each sip.
One reason why Soldera remains one of the most recognized Italian investments of the boutique wine world is its ability to improve for decades in the cellar. I’ve enjoyed bottles dating back close to the property’s inception in the 1970’s, and they only seem to get better with each passing year. Having enjoyed a few bottles of this 2009 over the years, I can say that it’s both a late bloomer and a wine that drinks younger than many other recent Soldera releases. It’s on fire right now and I expect it to remain in a sublimely enjoyable state for at least another 15-20 years. For optimal pleasure today, please decant for two hours before serving in large Burgundy stems (not Bordeaux stems like most Tuscan wines, please!). Tuscan Sangiovese is so often paired with “caveman” cuts of beef, but instead I urge you welcome this wine’s nuances with a subtler veal preparation—or even better, a whole roasted duck! Regardless of the meal, though, please reserve at least a glass’ worth to enjoy alone after your dining companions have retired for the evening. I promise that for all dedicated students and devoted lovers of wine, there’s no experience equivalent to quietly and privately savoring the last glass from a mature bottle of Soldera.
