Oddero has long been known
as one of Barolo’s enduring “traditionalists,” with wines that are built to age
without any heavy ‘makeup’ from new oak. The “Vignarionda” Riserva is a 10-year
Riserva in the making. While many of the 2016s are landed stateside, it’s rewarding
to score this already aged effort. Maria Cristina Oddero has been at the helm
here for some time now, and is assisted by her niece, Isabella, and her son,
Pietro. Maria Cristina’s great-grandfather, Giacomo, was one of the
early legends of Barolo: born in 1847, he inherited a small property in the
hamlet of Santa Maria, near La Morra, and was a shrewd assessor of vineyard
sites. He built up a collection of top Nebbiolo parcels; was one of the first
to bottle and sell wines with the name ‘Barolo’ on them; and was involved in
mapping and ‘delimiting’ what would become the Barolo DOCG. His grandson, also
named Giacomo (and Maria Cristina’s father) brought the Oddero name to
prominence in the modern era.

The “Vignarionda” has the amplitude and complexity we all should demand at this price point—this is not small change, and many wines at this price fall well short of the mark. However, this one is worth it, not least because it is extremely attractive now but is also clearly built to age. Great wines achieve that balance, and, while Barolo has no official hierarchy, vineyards don’t get more ‘grand’ than this offering. In the glass, it’s a deep garnet red with only slight bricking at the rim, with heady aromas of Morello cherry, blackberry, blood orange peel, tobacco, black tea, coffee grounds, and a touch of sandalwood. It is full-bodied in the way great Barolo is full-bodied—muscular, not fat, with a firm backbone of tannin and lots of freshness. This will bolster any serious collection and build to age gracefully in magnum format.