“Out of Stock.” “Pending.” “Waitlist.” If you want to experience Senses’ micro-batch Pinot Noirs, you better get accustomed to language of this nature. Alternatively, you could join their mailing list, along with thousands of others, which is currently functioning as a waiting list with no foreseeable end. So how are we lucky enough to come by today’s insanely delicious Sonoma Coast Pinot? We discovered Senses early on—like befriending an actor before their big break—and perks come with that. For us, that means getting a small allocation before the lion’s share is doled out to everyone else.
We couldn’t be more appreciative either because the demand for their micro-batch Pinots is at an all-time high, and there’s no rush to expand production. They want to grow slowly, organically, which means respecting the top vineyard sites they source from while ensuring nothing is overlooked in the winery. And it’s the cellar process where their secret weapon is introduced: Thomas Rivers Brown, one of the world’s most highly decorated and acclaimed winemakers. This is the first-ever offering of Senses’ Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, and there’s no doubting it’s an instant classic that demands to be laureled alongside the all-time regional greats.
Senses was created at the grassroots level in 2011 when three close-knit childhood friends from Occidental pooled their savings to produce 100 cases by hand: They farmed the grapes, crafted the wine, and began cold-calling and restaurant peddling without any outside help. And this hustle paid off for Christopher Strieter, Max Thieriot, and Myles Lawrence-Briggs: In seven short years, their range has been eagerly accepted by the press and restaurants alike. With the addition of winemaking phenom Thomas Rivers Brown in 2013, who is responsible for crafting wine for superstar labels like Schrader, Maybach, and Rivers-Marie (his own label), their unknown, small-production label has instantly become an underground sensation.
Today’s Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is their pride and joy, as it sources fruit from the “Terra de Promissio” vineyard (also used by Williams Selyem, Kistler, Hanzell) and the “Hillcrest” Vineyard, the latter of which is estate-owned and the sole source of fruit for their inaugural vintage back in 2011. For today’s 2017 release, fruit was meticulously handpicked and sorted before a cold-soak at the winery. Fermentation was carried out with yeasts indigenous to the vineyards. Afterward, the wine was transferred into neutral French barrels where it aged for just under one year.
The 2017 vintage was fiercely hot, so picking the right harvest date was crucial. The Senses team put their parcels under the microscope and made a game-time decision. Their vigilance did not go unrewarded: Their Pinot Noir is bursting with concentrated flavor while steering completely clear of over-ripe territory. So what you can expect here is Burgundian finesse with a hedonistic core of supple, über-ripe fruit that pulls you directly to Sonoma Coast’s world-class terroir. After a quick decant, and serving in a large Burgundy stem around 60 degrees, loads of pure, high-toned perfumes unfurl: black raspberry liqueur, crushed kola nut, ripe black cherry, pomegranate oil, red plums, spiced fruit cake, forest floor, crushed stone, dried rose petal. The melding of spice, rich forest fruit, and savory earth make for an impressively regal wine that erupts with unbelievable energy and polish. Its aromatics are explosive, its palate refined and deeply layered, and its finish as long as it is profound. I cannot wait to track its evolution over the next 3-5 years, but even right now it’s a pitch-perfect Sonoma Pinot Noir that instantly earns a ticket to the top 1% of California wine. Enjoy!