Although Paul Déthune has already comfortably established themselves as one of Champagne’s greatest Grand Cru values, today’s rarely seen vintage Blanc de Blancs elevates their status to a supernatural degree. And yet, despite fierce global demand and owning just seven premium hectares in the historic Grand Cru village of Ambonnay, Déthune has no desire to expand: Making micro-batch gems that stand out amongst the crowded ranks of luxury Champagne is all they strive for. To them, it’s more than a motto—it’s their livelihood.
Perhaps that’s the driving force behind their handcrafted 2012 Blanc de Blancs, because when it comes down to Ambonnay’s exorbitant real estate, 5+ years of aging in their 17th-century chalk cellars, and an extremely microscopic production, there’s no logical reason to craft today’s extraordinary Champagne. To them, this rare bottling is less about profit and more about genuine passion, and that immense passion comes alive when the cork is pulled: This a Champagne of cosmic proportions, one that channels Ambonnay’s pulverized chalk soils, the pure power of elite Grand Cru Chardonnay fruit, and the bottomless depth and complexity that comes with long, undisturbed aging. If you’re a longtime Déthune fan, I guarantee this will complete your noble collection. Get it while you can because from our research, this rare 2012 can’t be found anywhere else. Enjoy!
The Déthunes have been farming and crafting Champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889, but their winemaking lineage can be traced to 1610. Today, Pierre Déthune and his wife, Sophie, tend to seven organically-tended hectares throughout Ambonnay. Paul Déthune is a Récoltant-Manipulant (“RM” can be seen on the label), or grower-producer, which means they own, farm, and craft wines solely from their estate. While major Champagne houses, or Négociant-Manipulants, typically make wines by purchasing grapes from many different farmers, a “grower-producer” controls every aspect of farming and winemaking (although a grower who only owns Chardonnay vines can purchase a small portion of Pinot Noir and/or Meunier for rosé production).
They are adamant about sustainability—natural fertilizers are used, cover crops are planted, solar panels have been installed, and a rainwater collection system has been implemented. This cuvée is 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay harvested from the soon-to-be-legendary 2012 vintage. Fermentation (both alcoholic and full-malolactic) occurred in 205-liter barrels sourced from a local cooper and after bottling in early 2013, the wine aged in their hand-carved, centuries-old chalk cellar for over five years. It was then disgorged and corked without any filtration. An interesting note: Instead of adding a standard dosage consisting of beet sugar, Pierre uses MCR, or moût concentré rectifié, which is super-concentrated grape must reduced down to its base sugars. It’s rarely found in Champagne, but several growers are now using it with the mindset that it creates a more neutral and consistent sweetener.
This bottle will be the first Paul Déthune experience for some of you, so here’s a quick tip: Although these wines always show impressive depth and invitingly broad layers, they are at their most sublime 30+ minutes after pouring into an all-purpose glass, when many of the bubbles have dissipated. The result is reminiscent of a great bottle of Burgundy. Today’s stunning 2012 Blanc de Blancs erupts with damp white and yellow wildflowers on a bed of finely crushed chalk before revealing ample aromatics of yellow apple, white peach, Asian pear, pineapple core, lemon cream, citrus blossoms, and fresh brioche. The luxurious palate highlights the pure soul of Grand Cru Chardonnay, but there’s much more than Ambonnay’s power: This wine is all about finesse and suppleness, which allows it to glide across the palate with brilliant, persisting freshness. Ultimately, this long-aged, intricately crafted 2012 Blanc de Blancs is a grand achievement. It’s bound to floor the wine connoisseurs of the world, as well as those who are just now entering the luxury Champagne portal. For me, I’d happily shell out $100 (or more) for this bottle any time I saw it. If only it were readily available…
