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Château de Parnay, Saumur-Champigny “Le Blason de Parnay”

Loire Valley, France 2018 (750mL)
$30.00
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Château de Parnay, Saumur-Champigny “Le Blason de Parnay”

Whenever we offer a wine from the Loire Valley’s Saumur-Champigny AOC, there’s always a temptation to find out where its producer is located relative to cult icon Clos Rougeard (in today’s case, about eight kilometers down the road). There’s also a temptation to compare the wine to that of Clos Rougeard, but as I tasted today’s elegant Cabernet Franc from Château de Parnay, I thought: That really isn’t necessary.


Saumur-Champigny is one of the most dynamic, talent-rich wine regions in France—Clos Rougeard has many worthy competitors already (Guiberteau; Thierry Germain; Le Petit Saint-Vincent), and Château de Parnay is another one I’d enthusiastically add to the list. This historic property was acquired in 2006 by Mathias Levron and Régis Vincenot, who’ve restored both the château itself and its reputation for best-in-class Saumur-Champigny; since 2013, their 50 hectares of vineyards have been Certified Organic, with vines rooted in the same cream-colored limestone used to build the stately castle they surround. Today’s bright and polished red, “Le Blason de Parnay,” takes a cue from the ‘second’ wines of Bordeaux, offering an affordable—and tantalizing—introduction to an estate you’re going to want to know better. It’s also a reminder that Saumur-Champigny is no one-trick pony: This place is brimming with terroir-driven deliciousness that is a perfect addition to any well-curated cellar!


And yet, despite all the evidence to the contrary, many wine drinkers think of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc as simple, gluggable “bistro wine.” Le Blason de Parnay captures the fresh, unadulterated joy of such wines, but it’s far from simple: Not only does it lack the sharp edges and ‘green’ flavors that doom a lot of reds in the category, it has real nuance to its aromas and flavors. This one gives a nod not just to Bordeaux’s Right Bank but to Burgundy reds from Pinot Noir and Gamay alike—there’s an undeniable refinement to it that sets it apart.



The hamlet of Parnay, for which the castle is named, is right on the Loire River; there is some alluvial gravel to be found in the soils, but the predominant feature of the local terroir is the yellowish limestone known as tuffeau. It’s impossible not to see the polished stones of the château and not draw a parallel to the wines: Le Blason de Parnay is sourced from an assortment of meticulously tended old-vine parcels and sees no oak during its short élevage (aging). Styled to be vibrant, fresh, and accessible, it also exhibits some real depth, with a terrific mix of tangy fruit and turned earth.



The primary fruit will be heightened if you serve this 2018 a little cooler than normal, say 55-60 degrees. Decant it 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems and you’ll be greeted with a bunch of purple flowers and a bowl of black and red raspberries. In the glass, the wine is a glistening ruby-purple moving to magenta and pink at the rim, with a deep, almost heady mix of plum skin, wild herbs, graphite, and black truffles. Medium-bodied and rip-roaringly fresh, it also has a fine dusting of tannins reminiscent of espresso grounds. Conspicuously absent are the heavy pyrazine (i.e. bell pepper) notes that often dominate Loire Valley Cabernet Francs; here there’s just a slight (and pleasant) hint of menthol supporting the brambly fruit.



Drinking this wine with a heaping plate of food will tame its youthful edge and allow for a lip-smacking suppleness to show through. The versatility of this bottle is an integral part of its pleasure. It’ll pair with an astonishing variety of dishes and be drinking beautifully tonight and over the next 3-5 years, so be sure not to stop at just one bottle. But for your first brush with this wine I’d recommend something rich and classic: Try Thomas Keller’s recipe for savory leek bread pudding served alongside a tender roast chicken. You’ll be glad you stocked up. 
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Country
France
Region
Loire Valley
Sub-Region
FranceSaumur-Champigny
Soil
Tuffeau
Farming
Certified Organic
Blend
Cabernet Franc
Alcohol
12.5
TEMP.
55-60
Glassware
Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2025
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Roast Chicken w/ Leek Bread Pudding

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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