You’ve undoubtedly noticed that we offer a lot of Burgundy wine on this site. (Hard as we may try, it’s impossible not to divulge one’s personal preferences in a job like this.) And because we love Burgundy, it’s inevitable that we’re going to view New World Chardonnays through a Burgundian lens—something I think our favorite New World producers do, too.

It’s not that we’re looking for carbon copies of white Burgundy (which are frankly not possible), but rather wines that capture their energetic, cool-climate spirit. The wines of the Walter Hansel family have always done that beautifully—and quite affordably—and have become sommelier favorites in the process. As I noted when we offered Hansel’s single-vineyard “Cahill Lane” Chardonnay, this is a “heritage” wine. A benchmark. It bears little resemblance to that persistent “oaky/buttery/tropical” stereotype of California Chardonnay without sacrificing their Californian identity. Under the direction of second-generation proprietor Stephen Hansel, this winery has continued to move from strength to strength, displaying a deft touch with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir alike. And if I’m going to sneak a California wine into a tasting with some Burgundy-loving colleagues, I’d be very happy to bring today’s 2016. It is an undeniable classic that flies the Russian River flag proudly. Even if you share our Burgundy bias, there’s no way to deny the invigorating energy and precise balance of Hansel’s Estate Chardonnay.

Stephen Hansel notes that while the “Estate” Chardonnay draws from all his vineyards, it typically contains a “high percentage” of fruit from the family’s original vineyard plantings in the zone—which date to 1976 and 1989. There’s lots of old-vine depth in today’s 2016 but also lots of freshness, lending it a crystalline quality reminiscent of good Puligny-Montrachet. In the glass, it’s a star-bright yellow-gold moving to straw and green at the rim, with a similar yellow/green interplay in the aromas and flavors: yellow and green apple, white peach, lime blossom, lemon curd, white flowers, delicate spices, and well-integrated notes of cream and toast. It is medium-plus in body and invigoratingly fresh on the palate, ready to drink now and over the next few years with some of the Chardonnay-pairing usual suspects: richer fish dishes, roast chicken, etc. Decanting is not required (but certainly won’t hurt): serve it at 45-50 degrees in all-purpose white wine stems with some fish en papillote. Elegant, classic, and delicious. Cheers!