I liken Bernard-Bonin’s Meursault “Genevrières” to the hermetic quote “As above, so below.” This mystical phrase refers to the relationship of two entities within each other and that by understanding one, the other is in turn understood. Hermeticism and wine; who would’ve thought they would ever be in the same sentence?
Well, in today’s case their connection is strong: The Premier Cru “Genevrières” vineyard—one of the greatest, in my opinion—is divided into two plots at different hillside altitudes: Dessus and Dessous (above and below). And, as for their distinction, the husband-wife team of Bernard-Bonin, Nicolas and Véronique, describe the grapes from these respective areas as “spicy versus creamy.” So, by understanding both terroirs, they blend the two together in order to create a wine of perfect harmony and balance. Whether you subscribe to that or not, it’s impossible to argue the quality and complexity of the final product. It’s in a killer spot right now and will please for a decade-plus—as if Genevrières needed another reason to top my list of Meursault terroirs. With only a smattering of owned acres, Bernard-Bonin’s production is limited, so if you’ve only been dipping your toe into the high-end waters of Burgundy, this is a wine that deserves a full-on dive.
Bernard-Bonin offers terroir-driven, artisanal examples of white Burgundy that boast a true sense of place. Nicolas Bernard and Veronique Bonin, she from the revered Michelot family, took charge in 1998 after her grandfather divided his property into three separate domaines. With their land, they sought to produce authentic wines that showcased their natural approaches in both the vineyard and cellar. With ample respect for traditional techniques, the pair of them follow the phases of the lunar cycle and conduct a constant plowing regimen, even in the winter months (soil is alive and needs to breathe!). This hands-off approach allows the terroir and growing season to reveal its full personality in the bottle—something that is impossible to miss when you put your nose in the glass.
Following a natural early harvest from their two small plots in the stony, thin topsoils of Genevrières, the wine aged for roughly 15-18 months on its lees in mostly neutral French oak with a small percentage of new. Interesting to note—Bernard-Bonin keeps all oak exclusive to the vineyard, so any barrel holding wine from Genevrières will always contain Genevrières juice in future vintages (to them, wine responds differently to each nuance of a barrel; consistency is key). During its resting period, the wine underwent occasional bâtonnage (lees-stirring), which serves to deliver a slightly creamy mouthfeel, but mineral tension and acidity still shines brightest here—which only the finest examples of Meursault can deliver. After being racked from its lees, it was immediately bottled without fining or filtration.
Bernard-Bonin’s 2014 Genevrières displays a concentrated pale-yellow core with highlighted green and gold reflections. As always with top Meursault and Puligny, the aromas here are intense, with pungent notes of yellow apple blossom, dried pineapple, Asian pear, lime blossom, yellow plum, lemon curd, raw hazelnut, and lees. High-toned aromas of acacia and hawthorn soon follow, with a wave of exotic spice, vanilla infused creme, and accents of oyster shell. The palate confirms the horde of yellow fruits and displays ample amount of ripeness with its medium-plus body which seems to fill out as it gets air. There is a creamy sensation here that lightly coats your mouth, but all this is balanced by such a tactile rush of fresh acid and minerality oft found in Premier Cru sites. This is rich, soft, and savory all in one. I urge you to stow these away for as long as possible, as it will truly reveal itself around 2020, while lasting 10-15 years beyond that. Still, drinking now is a delicious treat, if given proper air. I recommend a 60-90 minute decant and enjoying it over a few hours if you’re not feeling rushed. Noting both the density and mineral precision of this wine, I can recommend nothing better than seafood with a rich sauce: Coquilles St. Jacques. Enjoy yourselves!
