Two things became crystal clear after tasting this in France seven months ago: (1) We had to purchase every bottle the family would allow us and (2) this was bound to leave a deep impression on a number of critics. So, upon later learning that Rhône critic/fanatic Jeb Dunnuck exclaimed today’s 2016 “Cuvée Antonin” was the finest he’d tasted from Château Fargueirol, we knew we had captured lightning in a bottle. Then “DrinkRhône’s” John Livingstone glowing review came in, followed by exceptionally high marks from Wine Advocate and International Wine Report, and Château Fargueirol immediately became one of our shrewdest imports.
Owned by a seemingly immortal family line that was first documented in the region in 1340, this is a classic, red-hot Châteaneuf-du-Pape loaded with pure old-vine Grenache, aged in classic demi-muids (600-liter barrels), and produced in pitifully small quantities. How small? Just 250 cases, three barrels’ worth, most of which will never cross the French border. As of this writing, the handful of cases granted to us are all that’s available in America—with so much press, we don’t understand how that’s possible, nor do we want to! Typically, when we encounter a 100% Grenache, demi-muid-aged CDP, we automatically think of fabled Rayas, but “Cuvée Antonin” transcends imitation and comparison. This wine is distinctly its own, full of high-throttle flavor, breathtaking purity, and immense breadth—at under $50 instead of $500++, how could one even mention Rayas in the same sentence? Don’t miss this!
The Révoltier family knows Southern Rhône. They’ve been grape growers for seven-going-on-eight generations and ancestral records show that Fargueirol (one of CDP’s lieux-dits) was their stomping grounds as far back as 1340! The actual château dates back to the 14th century as well, and the Révoltiers held it as a fiefdom until events in the French Revolution forced them to relocate to neighboring Courthézon. It wasn’t until the 1970s, nearly 200 years later, when they returned to the château and began repairing and restoring what little was left. Today, the family oversees 27 hectares of vines, a small portion of which clock in at over 100 years old, and tend to them with absolute care.
“Cuvée Antonin” is a micro-bottling coming from two Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards of world renown: La Crau and Farguerol. The former is widely considered Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s most famous lieu-dit, and it is huge. Sitting in the southeast of the appellation, it’s a geologically diverse plateau, with limestone, sand, silica, red clays, and the famed large, rounded stones called galets. Add on the hot temperatures and a large diurnal shift during the growing season and you have a veritable paradise for Grenache. The Farguerol vineyard is located at the northwestern reaches of the appellation, along with the château itself, and also enjoys a rich terroir similar to La Crau. Because the Révoltier family is steeped in tradition, they farm their sliver of vines manually, without chemicals, and employ a small team to harvest every cluster by hand. In 2016, fermentation occurred in stainless steel over four weeks with regimented pump overs and the resulting wine was transferred into three demi-muids for one year of maturation.
Grenache is unbeatable at its best, with high-toned perfumes, silkiness, and intense red fruit that ignites a savory sixth sense—as the late, iconic Grenache partisan Henri Bonneau said, “Grenache is Châteauneuf-du-Pape.” Accordingly, “Cuvée Antonin” is to be savored slowly, in order to fully experience every ounce of Châteaneuf royalty and each luxuriously textured layer. In the glass, this pure Grenache shines a deep translucent ruby with slight crimson hues and delivers a powerful vortex of lush aromas: raspberry liqueur, ripe black cherry, star anise, spiced plum cake, garrigue, strawberry preserve, red licorice, cloves, smoke, hot stone, fired clay, candied violets, and an array of warm baking spices. There’s no hiding the obvious—the palate is massive, brimming with polished layers, luxurious red fruit, and a soft core of stony minerality. This is 100% full-bodied, but the beauty of well-sculpted, top-terroir CDP is its ability to remain elegant throughout: the alcohol and plush fruits are present but it never overwhelms. Quite simply, it’s hedonism in moderation. While already generous and incredibly enjoyable with a two-hour decant, your unopened bottles will continue evolving positively over the next 10-20 years, so there’s no need to rush. We hope you enjoy this direct-import exclusive as much as we did, and still are!
