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Domaine Moron-Garcia, Brouilly “La Folie”

Burgundy / Beaujolais, France 2018 (750mL)
$28.00
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Domaine Moron-Garcia, Brouilly “La Folie”

Let's get straight to it: Moron-Garcia is the name to know in modern-day Burgundy if luxurious wine, micro-production, and fanatical attention to detail are among your requirements. According to Burgundy expert Steen Öhman, these are small-batch wines crafted in a way “that best can be described as on the border between crazy, or an extreme focus on quality and detail.” I understand what he’s getting at here—they’re employing practices of old and new, treating each barrel as if it’s a distinct child, and producing wines from specific terroirs that transcend what one thinks they know about Burgundy. Even myself, someone who has trudged through thousands of Beaujolais bottlings from each Cru and quality level, was taken aback by Moron-Garcia.


Today’s 2018 has granite-born Gamay identity, sure, but it is packed to the brim with polish, texture, and profundity that reads like a hyper-expensive, cool-climate Pinot Noir—dare I say a luxurious Côte de Nuits bottling? Coming from a naturally farmed vineyard that runs off the magnificent Mont Brouilly, childhood friends Mathieu Moron and Pierre-Olivier Garcia managed to bottle liquid luxury in the smallest of amounts. Only nine barrels of today’s Cru were produced and thanks to a close friend/Burgundy operative in Beaune, we got our hands on a small fraction of that. Most surprising of all, “La Folie” is still impossible to locate in America, other than here. Really, how can you not feel like an insider when drinking this? Enjoy this cellar-direct gem!


Two thousand sixteen was an eventful year for longtime friends Mathieu Moron and Pierre-Olivier Garcia. When the former’s father gifted him one acre of vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges, they put their heads together and decided to go for it. So, Mathieu and Pierre-Olivier, with their tiny sliver of vines, purchased a house in the center of town and immediately went to work. In a matter of months, they had transformed it into a functioning winery and were prepared for the inaugural harvest of their one acre, as well as a few other leased parcels from around the region. 



In the vineyard, the duo is determined to add biodiversity and farm naturally at all costs by bringing in various insects/animals to enrich the balance of the land, manually plowing, and using organic mixtures to treat their crop. For Brouilly—one of Beaujolais’ 10 famous Crus—they source grapes from the “La Folie” vineyard. This respected site is rich in sandy, pink granite and angled toward Mont Brouilly, the focal point of both Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly. The grapes are mostly de-stemmed (90%) at their winery and after fermentation, the wine is sent into mostly used French barrels for at least 12 months. 



If I haven’t already been clear: This isn’t your everyday, casual-drinking Beaujolais. Moron-Garcia’s “La Folie” is a richly layered, energetic beauty begging for the main-course spotlight at your dinner table. I found immense pleasure in last year's 2017, but I have to say this 2018 is a dominating performance. It pours a deep, nearly opaque ruby, and releases an aromatic “primary” vortex of black raspberry, huckleberry, licorice, boysenberry, and black cherries before settling down and emitting more savory notes of grape stem, underbrush, crushed granite, lavender, candied violet, and exotic spice. The medium-plus bodied palate is an enigma: although lush and bordering on hedonistic, there is superb tension and understated finesse that would have you battling between a number of prestigious Burgundy terroirs in a blind tasting. I’m simply blown away by what Moron-Garcia has emerged with in 2018. This is beautiful, rich red Burgundy that expresses itself generously and unabashedly. Again, only a couple dozen cases are available, so take as many as you can and enjoy pulling their corks over the next 5-8 years. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy / Beaujolais
Sub-Region
FranceBrouilly Cru
Soil
Pink Granite & Sand
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Gamay
Alcohol
13.5
OAK
Mostly Used French Barrels
TEMP.
60
Glassware
Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2025+
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Spiced Duck Breast w/ Orange-Fennel Salad

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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