We’ve been close followers of AR Lenoble over the last two years and have celebrated with them in both Paris and their
Champenois home base in Damery as they’ve ridden waves of effusive praise from all corners of the world. They’ve enjoyed a major highlight in
Decanter magazine, consistently high marks from renowned critics, and placed first in a 61-bottle tasting, all of which points to one thing—AR Lenoble is poised to become Champagne’s next big noisemaker. Our steady support throughout their launch to stardom has paid off with today’s offer: “Les Aventures” is their rare Grand Cru holy grail, a singular wine that only comes to most-deserving markets in ridiculously small quantities.
Only 167 cases are distributed around the globe per year and because of our close-knit relationship with AR Lenoble, we received 10. It may not sound like much, but it took owners Anne and Antoine Malassagne a tremendous amount of convincing. This multi-vintage, long-aged Blanc de Blancs is their rarefied baby, what they consider to be one of the finest expressions of their lineup—and it won’t take any convincing once you see the mindbending specs: It hails entirely from a .5-hectare parcel (smaller than a football field) in Grand Cru Chouilly; comes from a blend of the legendary ‘08 vintage and sensational ‘09 vintage; and aged in their deep cellar for nearly 10 years. This is the absolute pinnacle, and we couldn’t be more excited to share our tiny allocation with you.
Summarizing the 2008 vintage? Hard to do, but precision and lingering intensity comes to mind. In an almost haunting way, the deep mineral footprint in AR Lenoble’s village- and vineyard-specific Champagnes always leave a lasting impression, but 2008 takes it to the extreme. As for 2009, this was a year of voluptuousness, one that brought jaw-dropping ripeness and a sense of juicy hedonism. Môet & Chandon cellarmaster Benoît Gouez had the perfect analogies: “2008 is like having an oyster by the ocean in winter, while 2009 is like biting into an apricot in an orchard in the summer.” Obviously, AR Lenobles decision to combine these two extraordinary but distinctly unique vintages was a brilliant decision.
AR Lenoble is a rare breed in Champagne—both a highly respected house and independently owned since day one. This is a family resolute in keeping operations close-knit and crafting the greatest, purest expressions from an impressive collection of elite vineyards. While technically a négociant house, AR Lenoble is hardly just some “merchant”: Not only does this humble estate operate with a small grower mentality, they have staunchly remained 100% family-owned and independent since the beginning. Current proprietors Anne and Antoine Malassagne are ensuring it stays that way now and for generations to come.
In 1915, Armand-Raphaël Graser made the fatherly decision to move his family from Alsace in order to protect them from the nasty vibrations of the First World War. It took five years to craft his first champagne and 20 more to actually establish the house, but with perseverance and a little help along the way (from Léon de Tassigny, who went on to take the helm at Champagne Jacquesson), AR Lenoble began making its way onto the world scene. Lenoble is now run by his great-grandchildren, the brother-sister team of Anne and Antoine Malassagne, who have brought on new practices while preserving the traditions that preceded them. The Malassagnes have made sustainable viticulture a priority, eschewing chemical fertilizers, and eliminating other non-organic vineyard treatments. Additionally, reserve wines are fermented in a mixture of unique vessels and dosage levels are kept low to let the fruit and terroir character shine. They are the epitome of progressive thinking.
As such, their Chouilly bottlings are spectacles to behold with today’s limited offer being the most terroir specific. Their Grand Cru Chardonnay is sustainably farmed entirely from a microscopic parcel in the “Les Aventures” vineyard and harvested after meticulous inspection and sorting. It is always a blend of two outstanding vintages. After the 2008 harvest was vinified, it aged in a combination of stainless steel and neutral French oak until it’s blending partner—the 2009 vintage—was fermented the same way the following year. After both vintages were fused together, the wine was bottled under natural cork (a rarity) in the first quarter of 2010. From there, it descended into their deep cellar sent for nearly one decade. It was hand disgorged on the first day of September 2019 and given a very sensible three-gram dosage.
Where to begin...I think the best course of action for this fascinating Champagne is to treat it like Grand Cru Burgundy: Pour it around 50-55 degrees, serve it in large Burgundy stems, and savor it slowly over several hours. This is a powerful wine that instantly accentuates the bracing acidity and compact mineral core of 2008 and the lush yellow orchard fruit of 2009. But seeing as its been bottled up for 10 years now, give it a little time and you’ll be handsomely rewarded. As the fine mousse dissipates, you’re left with a sublime, incredibly refined Champagne that releases gorgeous aromas of apricot, grilled yellow apple, pineapple, white peach, salt-preserved lemon, honey, crushed nuts, coffee beans, chalkboard, crushed oyster shell, buttered toast, and exotic baking spices. As for the palate, I can’t help but mirror what Tyson Stelzer said about a previous 2002/2006 release: “a powerful and formidable experience for the adventurous, tet never heavy or broad, promising that the journey will continue for some years yet.” It’s true of today’s ‘08/’09. Raw energy, plush fruit, and wild savoriness radiate from start to finish—a long, mineral-flecked finish that threatens to linger forever. AR Lenoble’s Grand Cru Champagne is 12 years in the making, so it is clearly ready to deliver a breathtaking experience now, but just remember this bottle will be singing over the next decade. That’s why I strongly urge you to preserve a bottle in your cellar—it absolutely deserves a spot. Cheers!
