With swanky châteaux under the watchful eye of aristocratic families and the annual wine futures bonanza known as en primeur, finding tasty AND affordable Bordeaux can seem inaccessible to many. But when you seek out estates just off the beaten path and buy direct, today’s stunning 2015 Margaux emerges! Château de la Coste doesn’t make much sense when you compare the record-breaking vintage and world-famous Margaux appellation to its pedestrian price point. We haven’t lost any sleep over it, though!
Having not tasted this bottle since November of last year, I pulled the cork on one last week and it turned out to be one of the great surprises of 2019 thus far. Today’s wine brilliantly showcases just how important it is to allow wines to relax and evolve—but that doesn’t always mean waiting 10 years! Sometimes, a wine just needs several months to hit its stride and Château de la Coste’s 2015 is operating at full speed. I loved it so much, we pushed other offers back in order to slot it in sooner. The thing is, we don’t have much left: This is the last of our little trove, and I’m sad to reveal that there isn’t any ‘16 following on its heels. This one is likely to disappear quickly, so don’t miss out!
Château de la Coste is a second label of Margaux’s Château Paveil de Luze, which has been in the Barons de Luze family since the 1800s. Paveil de Luze is situated near the northern end of the Margaux AOC, just west of the town of Soussans. Frédérick de Luze, along with his sisters, Marguerite and Catherine, are the seventh generation of their family to run the château, where they farm 32 hectares of vineyards rooted in deep Margaux gravel. The Château de la Coste bottling is a product of the younger vines on the property and is typically comprised of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Consulting enologist Stéphane Fort heads the team in the cellar, where this wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged 12 months in 25% new French oak barriques before bottling.
The Margaux appellation is known for wines the combine power with often ‘feminine’ grace, and while 2015 was widely known across Europe for producing heavier, inkier reds, this one stayed true to classical form (check out the scores—and prices—for First Growth Château Margaux for a startling indicator of how well the vintage was received). There is plenty of ripe fruit and the tannins are mature and fine-grained, but the wine overall is really only a shade heavier than medium bodied, with perfumed aromas and a long finish. In the glass, it displays an opaque ruby core moving to garnet and pink highlights at the rim, and it needs about 30 minutes of air to lose its youthful reticence and release its complex aromas of black plum, blackberry, cassis, dried violets, graphite, tobacco, and crushed black stones. It teeters back-and-forth between sweet and savory while delivering an appealing mix of fine-grained tannin and freshness on the palate. It’s a focused, nimble, aromatic style of young Margaux, delicious to drink now and likely more of a short-term ager, with its peak likely coming in the next 3-5 years. Serve it in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees and try it with something a little fancy, like the attached Gordon Ramsay take on Steak Diane. You’ll be glad you went the extra mile. Cheers!