I’ve previously touted Saint-Romain as a Puligny/Chassagne-Montrachet hybrid, as it has pleasantly fooled me into thinking of one or the other on numerous occasions. In the right hands, these wines can be incredible, pushing past the precision and texture that its $100+ neighbors provide. Stunning bottles from Jean-Marc Pillot and Buisson have struck harmonious chords with our subscribership, but Clos du Moulin aux Moines’ will play an entire live-wire concerto.
This estate burst on the scene in the late 2000s with a lot of flattering press and buzz in the Burgundy community: The natural farming, real estate, cellar personnel, and, most of all, the quality of the wines was impressive across the board. However, there has never been enough wine available to sustain a real presence in the US market; as such, the property has remained an insider gem. We patiently waited years for a taste of their small-batch, old-vine Saint-Romain, but when every request kept coming up dry, we changed our tactics and went straight to the source. After personally exploring this ancient estate—which has a monastic history dating back over 1,000 years—we emerged with a tiny allocation that has just landed exclusively for you all. And trust me when I say this painfully limited production was well worth the lengths it took to acquire it. Only two cases remain!
Clos du Moulin aux Moines is based in the village of Auxey-Duresses, where it has centuries of history. The Abbey of Cluny monks first inhabited and began planting vines on this property back in the 10th century, but the current estate is much “younger”—built in 1650. It wasn’t until the later 2000s, though, when the estate was acquired, revived, and put back into the spotlight of Burgundy wine. Strong global demand continues to ensure that only a trickle of this family’s wines arrives in California each year, but from what I tasted and witnessed, the quality of work in the cellar and vines remains unbelievably high. This is an impressive domaine that should be on every Burgundy collector’s radar, especially now that the gifted Willy Roulendes (formerly with Domaine de Montille) is at the winemaking helm. Truly, the wines have never been purer.
Although just a couple miles west of Meursault, the commune of Saint-Romain is the ultimate ‘off-the-beaten-path’ appellation. This cooler, more rural white wine terroir sits in a hillside amphitheater with vineyards arrayed in a jumble of exposures, but the main distinction of Saint-Romain is altitude—some of its vineyards reach 1,500 feet! While this is considerably higher than its more famous neighbors to the east, these cooler sites still contain the classic Burgundy mix of marl and limestone that produce fine-tuned, mineral-chiseled Chardonnay with remarkable aromatic depth.
Sourced from their two micro-parcels (totaling 3.5 acres) in the vineyards “Combe Bazin” and “Sous Roches,” this 2014 is staggering in its aromatic intensity and laser-cut minerality. These vines were planted in the early 1960s and, in order to preserve their ancient spirit, the small team at Clos du Moulin aux Moines has been taking organic/biodynamic direction from two Burgundy all-stars: Dominique Lafon and Étienne de Montille. As a result, their vines are healthy, gnarly old souls that have only been touched by farm hands—tractors aren’t even allowed onto these pure soils. This natural philosophy also makes its way into the winery, where, after a triple-sorting, the Chardonnay sees a long fermentation via ambient yeasts and ages 12 months in carefully selected, mostly-used French barrels.
Clos du Moulin aux Moines’ Saint Romain in the structured 2014 vintage is an elegant and tension-filled Chardonnay spectacle. It pours a bright straw-yellow with platinum reflections and as the temperature rises, so do the aromatics—unfurling with incredible white flower perfume, citrus blossoms, and intense minerality. After dipping your nose in farther, other aromatic subtleties come into play: pineapple core, salt-preserved lemon, yellow apple skin, white peach, lime zest, fresh herbs, crushed chalk, wet stones, and a wonderful smattering of spices. There are a number of telltale signs on the palate that highlight its Burgundian properties, but it’s mostly the profound textural and mineral qualities that take center stage and guide you toward flashier appellations like Puligny-Montrachet. The electric palate is medium-bodied, ultra-bright, and bursting with minerals and savory citrus panache—enough to make you salivate profusely and demand a second glass. There are just so many taut layers to explore, but only at the right temperature after a serious decant of 60+ minutes. Drinking too cold will cloak the wine’s idiosyncrasies, so be sure to enjoy in large Burgundy stems around 55 degrees after proper air. It will also benefit greatly from cellaring: In another 3-4 years it will be even more spectacular, and will remain in peak form until 2030 and beyond. Put its chiseled minerality to work alongside a dish with a little bit of richness, as in the attached recipe. Sometimes a contrast brings out the best in both the food and the wine. Enjoy!
