The 2017 vintage is a master class in Novara hillside Nebbiolo, a.k.a. Spanna.  Fueled by an avalanche of glacial minerality, the best Nebbiolo in this region possesses a black-fruited barbarism that distinguishes itself from any other Nebbiolo-based wines in the world. Instead of Burgundian berries and delicate flowers, there is a dark, dense maze of black plum, pomegranate, black licorice, oiled leather, maduro cigar tobacco and aromatic dried spices. It’s always humorous to us that these wines are crafted by such elegant women, because our tasting notes invariably include the words “manly” or “muscular!” And that same raw power in each sip of this wine is what will sustain it for another decade-plus of cellar evolution. That said, this particular “Colline Novaresi” bottling is always remarkably drinkable and well-integrated upon release. It’s an intense and powerful wine, but modest in alcohol and always balanced—a perfect wine to drink now AND later down the line.