We’ve offered several vintages of the Vinéalis cuvée, so its story may be familiar to some: Deschamps farms an 8.5-hectare collection of vineyards rooted in the Kimmeridgian limestone soil of Les Loges, which is just north of the appellation’s namesake village, Pouilly-Sur-Loire. Four of his parcels fall within the Pouilly-Fumé AOC: “La Côte,” “Les Griottes,” “Les Vignes de Berge,” and finally, the most prized single vineyard, “Les Champs de Cri.” Champs de Cri’s “young vines” are 60+ years old, but for Vinéalis, Marc sets aside fruit from an even older corner of the vineyard. The result is a wine that miraculously combines the piercing minerality of top-tier Sancerre, the brooding mystery of mature Savennières or Vouvray, and the depth and length of Grand Cru Chablis. It is a mind-expanding, one-of-a-kind expression of Loire Valley terroir and a master class in French white wine.