In a region that is steeped in history, the Ramírez de la Piscina family are at another level of historic tradition. This family has been farming grapes and stewarding their land in the area of San Vicente de Sonsierra since the 13th Century, and their family crest is located on a small cathedral that dates to the 1100s. Today the family continues to farm and make wine, many, many generations later. Their style, as the labels suggest, is quite traditional, but they aren’t afraid of a little innovation too. Lovers of old-school Rioja, or just great and classically styled wines, will find a whole lot to love in their 2019 Reserva–it’s just now hitting its drinking window but will age gracefully for many years to come.

Bodegas Ramírez de la Piscina was officially founded “just” 50 years ago, but the modern era traces its roots to Julio Ramírez who took the helm in 1945, and by 1961 he was selling wines commercially in Bilbao. Of course the family’s viticultural roots in the area go back at least a thousand years, and today they are one of the largest and most important land holders in the Sonsierra.

For their flagship Reserva the family uses 100% old vines Tempranillo from some of their best, high elevation vineyards in the Sierra Cantabria foothills. The fruit is carefully sorted and de-stemmed before fermentation, no crushing of the berries occurs. After a gentle pressing it is racked into 228 liter French and American oak barrels, of varying ages, for 24 months before another racking into steel tanks to settle for two months before bottling. It is aged in bottle for at least 36 more months before release.

At five years old this Reserva is still a baby, so a good, vigorous decanting is recommended. Serve at cellar temperature in Bordeaux stems and enjoy a classic nose of red and black fruits–Morello cherry, plum, black raspberry, cassis—that is followed by more savory notes of cedar, cigar box, bitter chocolate, dried herbs, and just a hint of old-school dill and coconut. If you want more savory, just wait another five to fifteen years!