Every region needs its legends. Rioja has its Lopez de Heredia, Barolo its Bartolo Mascarello, and though he might not be a household name here in the States, Carmelo Patti is undoubtedly the legend of Mendoza. In a bottle like today’s 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, all the ingredients are there: old school, rigorously artisanal production methods; a laser-like focus on the best and oldest sites in the region; and most importantly, a deeply soulful drinking experience. If the word “Mendoza” tends to conjure up for you images of glittering, modern wineries producing ultra-polished showpieces, you’re not alone. But a bottle of Carmelo Patti both defies our expectations of what Mendoza can be and affirms its greatness. This is undoubtedly one of the most magical wines from one of the greatest producers in all of South America. Load up, and stay tuned for an afternoon offer that really scales the heights of Patti’s prowess!
Carmelo Patti was born in Sicily, but was brought to Argentina by his parents in 1951, when he was just one year old. From the moment he could work, Carmelo was involved in viticulture; his father was a farmer who maintained a vineyard for home winemaking, and Carmelo spent his days at his father’s side. At the age of 19, he left to work for nearby wineries and spent the next 17 years watching from the inside as Mendoza grew from oddity to international vinous powerhouse. The wineries became unabashedly modern and technology-focused, the region shifted its focus almost entirely to Malbec, and wines spent mere months aging before they were released. There was plenty of wine to go around, but little of it lived up to the potential Carmelo knew Mendoza had. Carmelo dreamed of establishing his own winery, one focused on old vines, stridently traditional production methods, and, above all, extensive aging before release. In 1986, at the age of 36, Carmelo struck out on his own.
From the get-go, Carmelo Patti made wine the old way. All of the fruit comes from the Luján de Cuyo subzone of Mendoza, where the region’s famously high elevations meet rocky, sandy soils that imbue the grapes with incredible structure. Although he makes stunning Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon was the first variety Carmelo chose to work with, and it remains his favorite. Carmelo works only with red varieties, which get destemmed and fermented in massive concrete tanks. The wines then spend a year in a mix of concrete and very old barrels. Crucially, Carmelo chooses not to release any wine until he feels it’s ready to drink; most wines age in bottle for around five years, but in especially great vintages like today’s 2015, he’ll hang onto the wines for close to a decade.
Even at nine years old, Carmelo recommends decanting his Cabernet Sauvignon for an hour or more, and we’re inclined to agree. A little air allows the densely-packed aromas to really unfurl and impress. The nose leads with deep, brambly fruit, slightly dried blackberries and raspberries alongside juicy purple plum flesh. Cedary spice, tomato leaf, and black pepper follow. On the palate it’s unabashedly ripe, the purple and red fruits filling out into mouth coating texture before the brisk, elevation-derived acidity comes to whisk them away. Soft yet present tannins persist, inviting drinking right now but setting things up for a further decade of aging if you wish. What impresses here above everything else is the wine’s old-school, artisanal touch, miles away from the highly technical Mendoza wines we’re so used to. Any lover of Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley, even Brunello will find plenty to love here. If you think you know Mendoza, Carmelo Patti is here to change your mind!
