Kellermann? I didn’t know the wine. I looked left and right at my colleagues—they hadn’t heard of it, either. As we learned, it’s the kind of wine you get from someone who “knows a guy who knows a guy.” Bottom line: After tasting Kellermann’s biodynamic Pinot Noir from the “Filigreen Farm” vineyard in Mendocino, I’m betting on it becoming a household name.
The elegance and pure terroir expression in this bottle was outstanding; a seamless example of pure, gently handled Pinot Noir. I say this not to grandstand, but to ensure that you don’t miss this under-, or rather,
off-the-radar, producer. Today’s bottle instantly put Kellerman on my short list of Anderson Valley favorites—they’re one of the most exciting new California producers I’ve encountered in quite a while. This level of purity and authenticity cannot be forged. You want traditional wine made in the spirit of old-school Burgundy? Kellermann has it: biodynamic grapes; subtle oak; minimal sulfur; and a machine-less environment from barrel to bottle. With only three barrels made, I wish we could’ve bought by the barrel instead of the case. At this point, is the irresistible price even worth mentioning?
Kellermann, founded just four years ago, is run by husband-wife team Matt and Julie Kellerman. After pinging across the United States, they finally landed in Russian River Valley and, on a wing and a prayer, began climbing the winemaking ladder. From harvest intern, to Cellar Master, to Assistant Winemaker, Matt worked his way up and in 2014 was confident in his abilities to start crafting his very own wine. His philosophy is “...to create a wine that showcases the land and vineyard in which it grew. A terroir driven wine.” Knowing that, “Filigreen Farm” couldn’t have been a better match for them. Originally founded in the late ‘80s as a biodynamic apple orchard, it has since grown to include cherries, olive trees, peaches, blueberries, and, of course, this Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyard, planted to Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.
Though located about 60 miles northwest of their home, they are adamant about tracking the vines’ development throughout the year and, come harvest in 2016, Matt and Julie handpicked the 2400 pounds of grapes themselves. In the winery, the grapes naturally fermented (15% whole cluster), in stainless steel tanks and once complete, the resulting wine was transferred via gravity into French oak, 25% new, for 15 months. It was then bottled, also via gravity, unfined and unfiltered, with a trace amount of sulfur.
Kellermann’s 2016 “Filigreen Farm” Pinot Noir reveals a dazzling ruby core with flashes of magenta that move out to a soft pink rim. Expect the nose to erupt with black cherry blossoms, dried strawberries, red apple skin, pomegranate, black tea, rose stems, violets, forest floor, crushed stones, damp leaves, and black raspberry, with underlying notes of baking spice. It’s elegant and impressively ripe on the palate, showing off a medium-plus body, but always remaining ‘light on its feet.’ It’s a soulful take on California Pinot, with incredible tension and mineral verve on the palate. This is such a pitch-perfect example of Anderson Valley: supple fruit, impactful earthiness, and a long-lived savory palate full of herbs and crushed rock minerality. This will stun drinkers of California Pinot while also pleasing the most refined Burgundy lovers; it’s a pleaser of all walks of life. After a quick 30 minute decant (optional), simply serve in large Burgundy stems just above cellar temperature. It will match with many dishes, so there’s no wrong answer here, but I went with a traditional beef tenderloin with sautéed mushrooms. Simple to make, delicious to eat. Cheers!