The textbook Chablis bottles from Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils are officially hall of fame status at SommSelect, having been in our rotation for many years now, and their Premier Cru “Côte de Lechet” is the hands down MVP of the line up. Small wonder, the pristine parcels that the Dampt family farm here produce a soaring testament to the powerful combination of Chardonnay and Kimmeridgian limestone. This wine is squarely in the top tier of White Burgundies, and as such it remains one of the most complete values in its class. The latest release, 2022, is loaded with crispy fruit and ready to go right out of the bottle. That said it will definitely get even better over the next five plus years, so don’t hesitate to stock up for the fall, the spring, and the summers beyond!
Limestone is a key component in many, perhaps most, of the world’s best wines. But the particular type found in Chablis and the eastern Loire (Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé) is known as Kimmerdigian and it offers a unique flavor profile that is 180 million years in the making. During the Upper Jurassic Age, this area was under water; what was left behind is a composition of limestone, clay and fossilized oyster shells that is delightfully unmistakable in the glass and is one of the most stunning examples of terroir’s power in the world. If you were to take a stroll through the rolling terrain, you would undoubtedly stumble across ancient seashells. They are everywhere and what they offer the flavor profile of these wines is pure magic. Quite a bit further along in the history of Chablis, the Romans are believed to have first cultivated the region. However, it wouldn’t be until the 12th century that the Cistercian monks planted Chardonnay in Chablis; from there it is believed to have spread to the rest of Burgundy.
Daniel Dampt & Fils is nurtured by a family that boasts 150 years of viticulture in Chablis and is an integral part of the appellation’s modern history. Daniel, together with his sons Vincent and Sebastien as well as his famous father-in-law, Jean Defaix, have collectively built a reputation for incredible quality and exceptional value. Their wines are carefully crafted from some of the most treasured sites in the region. Today’s wine is derived from forty-year-old, east and southeast facing vines that are sustainably grown atop a precious 2.8 hectares in the Côte de Léchet. Perched amidst chalky outcroppings on the left bank of the river Serein, Côte de Léchet is known for delivering crisp acidity and a compelling snapshot of Kimmeridgian minerality. This wine utilizes natural yeast for fermentation, is aged for six months in stainless steel and is lightly fined and filtered before bottling.
The joyous 2022 vintage has a pale straw yellow core with green reflections on the rim. The nose possesses powerful aromatics including fresh crushed hazelnut, white peach skin, Bosc pear, yellow apple and a touch of lemon zest mingled with notes of honey, nori, oyster shell, honeysuckle, and stirred lees. The medium-bodied palate is dense and concentrated yet perfectly balanced with fresh acidity that unfolds into flavors of laser-focused minerality, fruit that confirms the nose, creamed hazelnut, honey and incredible oyster shell and chalk minerality that drives the clean, refreshing finish. This wine is young, fresh, and delicious right out of the bottle, but like all great wines improves with air. For optimal results, decant for 20 to 30 minutes and serve between 50-55 degrees in Burgundy stems. Although shellfish, especially oysters, offers a classic pairing, try the classic local pairing with rare steak. It may sound bizarre, but the interplay of steak fat with oyster shell and refreshing minerality delivers an uncanny pleasure that you simply must try. Or, have it both ways with a little “surf n’ turf” action!
