Lovers of Nebbiolo, or world class red wine writ large, take note: Monforte d’Alba is one of the key villages in the Barolo DOCG zone, and in addition to being home to a lot of people named Conterno, Monforte’s vineyard landscape also includes one of the purest southern exposures in the entire Barolo appellation: the “Ginestra” vineyard. This site is one of Barolo’s undisputed Grand Crus, with an all-star roster of legendary producers (again, many named “Conterno”) farming pieces of it. It is in every way the Barolo big leagues. In this rarefied landscape Diego Conterno’s eponymous label is relatively new, but he’s hardly a rookie: he literally grew up in the Ginestra cru, and the parcel he now farms and features in a vineyard-designate bottling is within the subsection called “Sorì Ginestra,” which boasts the most perfect southern exposure of all. Bottom line? This is blue chip Barolo for an extremely modest price.

Diego, along with his cousin, Claudio, was part of the team that established the Conterno-Fantino winery in 1982, but in 2000, Diego struck out on his own, producing his first vintage under his own name in 2003. But unlike the Conterno-Fantino wines, which are known for their bold, “modernist” sheen—something many of the most famous wines from Ginestra share—Diego was after something very different with his own label. His are deeply traditional wines, aged in larger-sized barrels and rested for a period in concrete tanks before bottling, resulting in a wine that displays Ginestra’s characteristic plushness in a more finessed and perfumed way. 

Now assisted by his son, Stefano, who came aboard in 2010, Diego now has a recently renovated winery to work from as well—just upslope from Giacomo Conterno, no less (no relation). The Conterno clan Diego belongs to has owned vines in the Ginestra cru for more than 150 years, and when he sold his stake in Conterno-Fantino, he took with him a few long-held family plots, including a little over two hectares in “Sorì Ginestra.” Overall, he and Stefano now farm 7.5 hectares, all in the village of Monforte, and achieved organic certification in 2014.

What stands out most about their 2019 “Ginestra” is its restraint: It is beautifully ripe and relatively soft for a young Barolo, but it is not weighty or dense, as you might expect from a full-south exposure. Lots of people compare Barolo to Burgundy, but in most instances, I really don’t see it—but with this wine, the comparison is apt. The earthy, tobacco-y savor of Nebbiolo is nicely checked by the plush cherry fruit, and the overall impression is one of finesse and lifted perfume. It was aged 24 months in used 500-liter barrels from the Austrian cooper Stockinger, then six months in concrete tank and a year in bottle before release. It has already knit together nicely, and with time, more layers will emerge.

Decant this 2019 about 30-45 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems, and let the conversation begin. Can a Barolo that is not ultra-tannic in its youth be aged? Oh, absolutely. This is impeccably balanced and poised to be something truly special in 5-7 years’ time. In the glass, it’s a bright garnet red moving to pink at the rim, with aromas of red and black cherry, blood orange peel, rose petals, tobacco, leather, and forest floor. It is downright plush by Barolo standards, and yet the acidity is plenty to get your mouth watering. This is the kind of wine that rewards a little more effort on the food side, so the next time you’re ready to take on a project, try the attached porchetta preparation. You won’t regret it. Cheers!