The Vermentino grape, grown most famously along the Mediterranean coastlines of Italy and France (where it’s called Rolle), gets unfairly pigeonholed as a “summer quaffer” because its preferred terroirs are in scenic, sun-splashed locales. But in the same way that Provençal rosé can be serious, age-worthy wine, whites from Vermentino—especially the more substantial, structured styles of Sardinia and Corsica—deserve a more prestigious ranking than they’re often given. Greece’s Assyrtiko is now considered a world-class white. Ditto for Spain’s Albariño. Should Vermentino be in that company? When it comes from the Gallura region of northeastern Sardinia, we’d have to say yes—these are bold, memorable whites of unmistakable “Mediterranean” character. Refreshing? Totally, but so much more too, and the price is ridiculously good.
The Vermentino di Sardegna DOC designation covers the entirety of Sardinia, whereas the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG is confined to the northeastern part of the island (which is also known for dense groves of cork oaks). The Cantina Gallura is headquartered in Tempo Pausania, in the granite-rich foothills of Mount Limbara. The topsoils here are very thin, rocky, and sandy, and the weather conditions quite hot and dry—and yet the Vermentino grape manages to thrive, attaining full ripeness while also maintaining refreshing acidity. It’s a classic tale of a grape adapting to its environment over the centuries, sending roots deep into the subsoil to find water during the intense Sardenian summers, and in the process building a relationship between the vine and the soil that we often refer to as terroir. Cantina Gallura, with it’s team of experienced growers who have wealth of generational knowledge, is uniquely suited to express that terroir in every bottle of Vermentino they produce.
Throughout Sardinia’s modern history, winemaking cooperatives have played an outsized role, and they’ve developed international reputations for excellence. Cantina Gallura, named for Sardinia’s lone DOCG appellation, has become well-known for the quality of its wines, especially those from Vermentino. Founded in 1956, the co-op draws from an association of small grape-growers located in and around the village of Tempo Pausania.
The “Canayli” bottling carries a “superior” designation, meaning fruit is harvested at a higher level of ripeness to produce a fuller-bodied style (it is not, however, a “late harvest” wine and is resolutely dry). Fermentation and aging are carried out in stainless steel tanks, with the wine spending about six months aging on its fine lees before bottling. The extra ripeness contributes to a complex, soulful texture and is balanced perfectly by savory herbs and that surprisingly snappy acidity.
The just released 2023 “Canayli” cuvée shines a pale yellow-gold with flecks of green in the glass, and features deliciously classic aromas of wildflower honey, white peach, green apple, assorted green herbs (thyme, mint, sage) and citrus rind, sensations that carry through to the juicy mid-palate. This wine lands squarely in the “medium-plus” category in terms of concentration, but the acidity is crisp and citrusy, so there’s lots of refreshment to be had. It’s a white that is tailor-made for herb-infused seafood pastas or a hearty zuppa di pesce. It’s the perfect bottle of white to finish off the summer and transition into the fall and holiday season, so don’t hesitate to grab a case or two before this small production gem is long gone.
