David Croix has been one of the most acclaimed young talents in Burgundy since he took the helm at Camille Giroud two decades ago straight out of oenology school, and then founded his own estate: Domaine des Croix. Damien Courbet became a good friend while they studied together, and he also happens to be the current generation at the helm of his family’s iconic Jura property: Domaine Courbet. A few years ago they joined forces to take advantage of some pristine fruit from organic vineyards in the Côte du Jura, and produced their first bottles in 2019. At five years old now, “Savadonnay” (named so due to the blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin) is a towering testament to both their talents, and the special terroir. Like Premier Cru White Burgundy with a Jura soul, this wine is a revelatory experience.
The Courbet family’s home village is Nevy-sur-Seille, right beneath the famed hill of Château-Chalon in the center of the Jura. Founded in 1869, Domaine Courbet was run by Jean-Marie until 2011, when his son Damien took the helm. A long résumé belies his youthful exuberance—stints at California’s Au Bon Climat, Alsace’s Zind-Humbrecht, and Nicolas Potel’s projects in both Burgundy and South Africa are among the highlights. Having such wide-ranging international experience must only have deepened his appreciation for his home region, which is underpinned by a vein of Jurassic limestone as profound as anything found in Burgundy.
Of course Burgundy is still the “it” destination for oenophiles and terroir junkies, and that is precisely why David Croix–originally from the Loire Valley–chose to study there and stay put after graduation. He was the lead winemaker at the venerable negociant house of Camille Giroud from 2002 to 2016, and was able to found his own domaine as well in 2005. All along he and Damien Courbet stayed close, so when Damien was offered some screaming good deals on organically farmed fruit from a few neighbors he immediately suggested that he and David form an official partnership and create a new label. Thus the birth of Croix & Courbet in 2019.
Today’s impeccably balanced, mineral drenched showpiece hails from that inaugural release. Named “Savadonnay” because it is a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Savagnin, the fruit is sourced from three vineyards with excellent exposition on the classic soils of the southern Jura: shattered limestone and gray marl. The whole clusters were gently pressed and then fermented and aged in 228 liter, neutral barrels for 18 months, before being racked into tanks to age on the fine lees for another 18 months prior to bottling. Note that this wine was entirely “topped up” or made in the ouillé method (not oxidative), as is true for all their wines.
Serve “Savadonnay” cool, not cold, in a nice Burgundy stem and enjoy the full range of classic Jura aromatics and flavors: Green and yellow apples, roasted almonds, fresh cut pineapple, lemon zest, citrus blossom, salted butter, fennel, and wet rocks. A classic pairing would be a Bresse chicken and morel preparation, but a nice, richer fish dish would also be excellent. Of course you could always keep it simple and just serve alongside a nice hunk of Comté and some good bread. Whatever you choose, this is a rare opportunity to taste the culmination of two extremely talented winemakers working side by side.
