The large number of wines bottled under the designation of “IGT Toscana Rosso” basically break down into two camps: Fresh, quaffable, and generally cheap versions of Sangiovese in its most simple and straightforward expression, or internationally-styled blends, made with an emphasis on power and prestige, looking for high points and costing well into the three digits. But today we’re talking about Caparsa, and true to their “go your own way” reputation, this Rosso refuses either camp. This jewel-box winery in the famed hamlet of Radda has some seriously old and well-cared-for Sangiovese vines, and really, Sangiovese is the estate’s core competency—meaning that even this entry-level bottling displays some real muscle. This is a gutsy, soulful Tuscan red from one of the variety’s greatest champions, and it begs to be judged solely on its merits. So go ahead, it’s time to find out what the heart and soul of Sangiovese really tastes like!
Caparsa was founded, and originally planted, by Reginaldo Cianferoni in 1965. Since 1982, the estate has been run by Reginaldo’s son, Paolo, and his large family. The Cianferonis work almost exclusively with Sangiovese, producing several Chianti Classico wines along with IGT bottlings like this one. These are extremely authentic, naturally made wines, very Chiantigiani in their firm, high-toned structures and woodsy aromatics. The estate only bottles about 45% of its total production; the remainder is sold off in bulk. That means that every bottle that bears the Caparsa name is a labor of love, and one that the family is extremely proud of. They are entirely committed to producing the very best Sangiovese, and especially a Sangiovese that speaks to the supremacy of terroir that is Radda in Chianti.
If Chianti Classico had such designations, the village of Radda (yes, the entire village, as in Champagne) would be classified as “Grand Cru.” Caparsa’s vineyards in this area date back to the 1960s, and indeed the organically farmed parcels supplying this wine have an average age of 60 years. Soils in the Caparsa vineyards, most of which sit at about 350-450 meters of elevation and cover 28 hectares in total, contain a high percentage of galestro, a friable clay marl with a high limestone content. It’s truly a perfect terroir for Sangiovese, especially if you like the elegant, complex, and intoxicatingly perfumed expression of this famous grape.
This IGT (“Rosso Toscano”) bottling does not carry a vintage date, as it “sometimes” contains wines from two successive vintages (in this case, we’re told the wine is entirely from 2020). Fermentation is carried out in concrete tanks, followed by 18-36 months of aging (long for a wine in this category) in those same concrete tanks. This is a gutsy, savory take on Sangiovese, with lots of tobacco, tomato leaf, and underbrush notes, although there’s also a saturated core of black cherry, cranberry, and raspberry fruit. Medium-bodied and full of tension, it also has relatively gentle tannins and manageable acidity for a young wine from this region—there’s lots of tension, but the acid isn’t in any way sharp. It’s a natural pairing for any hearty, northern Italian inspired dish, but I would be hard pressed to think of a more delicious combination than Caparsa’s Rosso Toscana with wild boar ragù atop a pile of fresh pappardelle. Buon appetito!
