Given the renowned beauty of Tuscany, and the worldwide fame of Chianti, it’s not surprising that this ancient region is dominated by high dollar vanity estates and industrial scale wine “factories.” But it’s also a large region with lots of tiny hamlets, and if you know where to look there are still old-school farms that put the full weight of their tradition and passion into producing world class Chianti Classico. And I would be hard pressed to find a better example of this than Castellinuzza e Piuca. Blessed with high elevation vineyards in the sneaky great village of Lamole, this family estate has gifted us with one of the most pure, elegant, and deliciously satisfying expressions of Sangiovese out there. Add to that excellent value and you have a perfect bottle to keep on hand for any Italy inspired meal.
Castellinuzza e Piuca was officially established in 1985, however the Caccio family purchased the original estate in 1962. The 1950s and ‘60s were at time of economic downturn in Tuscany, following the devastation of WWII, and this is what allowed the Caccios the opportunity to finally own the land they had farmed as sharecroppers for generations. When the estate was split between five brothers, Giuliano Caccio christened his portion “Castellinuzza e Piuca.” This jewel-box organic farm–and we do mean farm, with cows, horses, chickens etc.–is nestled in the hills of Lamole, which boast some of the highest-elevation vineyards (450-600 meters) in the Chianti Classico DOCG. Owner Simone Coccia (Giuliano’s son) and family work their 10 hectares organically and craft their wines in the most traditional and natural manner possible.
Lamole is a tiny hamlet that sits in the hills to the south of the larger town of Greve in Chianti, which encompass the northeastern most subregion of the Chianti Classico zone. Though much of Greve is lower elevation, the vineyards of Lamole are some of the highest in Chianti, and the Caccio family’s vines sit at 1500 to 2000 feet. The ancient terraces and steep slopes here have indeed given rise to a specific clone of Sangiovese, appropriately named “Sangiovese di Lamole.” The high elevation vines, classic soils of limestone marl and sandstone, and the diurnal fluctuations of warm days and cool nights are what make this terroir so distinctive, and Simone Caccio and team are masters at capturing all of that glorious earth in every bottle they produce.
The 2021 Castellinuzza e Piuca is one of the most soulful, authentic expressions of Chianti Classico you could ask for—aged only in concrete tanks, and dripping with brambly black cherry fruit, this isn’t a flashy “modern” Chianti wearing lots of makeup; this is old-school wine made cleanly and with the traditional local varieties: Sangiovese (90%) and Canaiolo. The cement tanks, natural yeast fermentation, and minimal filtration all result in the purest expression of Lamole terroir possible: Sweet Morello cherries and tart red cherries mingle with earthy mushrooms, sagebrush, hazelnut, blood orange, tar, iodine, and loads of saline minerals. Food? Yes please! A simple ragù over your favorite pasta is perfect of course, as is pizza (especially tasty with deep dish, like Detroit style), but also porchetta or even a big T-bone steak done Tuscan style. Long story short, I would buy it by the case so you always have a great Chianti around whenever the Italian culinary inspiration strikes!
