For tonight’s Friday bonus we’re pulling out a little Champagne trick that we have up our sleeve–one that we haven’t used in a long time. To make this magic work we focus on the very talented yet almost completely under the radar winemaker Laurent Lequart, and on his special designation known as “Récoltant-Coopérateur.” There’s a full explanation of this below, but the bottom line is it allows for the utmost quality at the lowest possible price. But the fun doesn’t stop there: Laurent is also a wizard with the “third wheel” of Champagne grapes, Pinot Meunier, and has crafted a truly mesmerizing, soulful, savory, and downright delicious sparkling rosé that will result in oohs and ahhs from all who raise a glass. Not to belabor the point, but this really is magical stuff, don’t miss out!
So, what is this special, albeit obscure, “Récoltant-Coopérateur” all about anyway? Let’s break it down:“Récoltant’ means they are a “grower,” so they independently own and farm all of their vines—11 hectares spread across the Vallée de la Marne village of Passy-Grigny. That’s part one of the formula. Part two is “Coopérateur.” This means they sell their crop to a local co-op that produces various Champagne brands—but they don’t sell off the entirety of it. Upon distributing the year’s yield, they are able to retain a small portion, enough to produce a small lineup of their own, and that amounts to a paltry 200 cases for their rosé “Blanche d’Andesyne!”
Laurent Lequart is the fourth generation of growers in his family, but he’s the first official winemaker. After completing oenology school he returned to his home in Passy-Grigny, a small village a few miles west of Éperney, and with his father’s blessing he established his own label and began producing small amounts of wine. The bulk of the family’s grape harvest continued to go to the local co-op, but Laurent was thrilled to finally put their name on a few precious bottles of his own Champagne. In time he became the president of the co-op, and is now like the unofficial mayor of Passy-Grigny, and his tiny production wines are better than ever.
The “Blanche d’Andesyne” is Laurent’s unique take on rosé. As with most of his cuvées he lets Pinot Meunier, with all its savory earthiness, take the lead, and uses a small amount of Chardonnay to add salinity and a chiseled, mineral edge. But what sets this gem apart is the 10% of still Pinot Meunier that is added prior to bottling and secondary fermentation. That is quite high for Champagne, and it contributes the vibrant, sunset pink and blood orange hue. Serve it chilled in an all-purpose glass and that beautiful color will dazzle your guests, as will the elegant perlage and the textural, savory palate. Notes of crushed raspberries, red currants, and glazed strawberries are followed by dried flowers, orange zest, and hints of porcini and sea salt. It’s a deliciously distinct expression of a classic rosé Champagne, and it is sure to wow everyone who takes a sip. Given the value, there’s really no reason not to stock up!
