Bordeaux, as a region writ large, makes a ton of wine (some would argue too much), which is why we often taste dozens and dozens of bottles before finding one or two “winners.” That’s precisely why we were so thrilled when today’s discovery from Château Haut-Goujon hit the table. An excellent, highly rated vintage with close to a decade of bottle age? Check. A wine that is clearly in the midst of its optimal drinking window, showing a full range of aromatic complexity, and a rich, silky texture with soft tannins and integrated oak spice? Check. And an outrageously reasonable price, too? Check, check, check! It has the “must buy” Bordeaux trifecta, and on top of that it comes from a small, traditional, family owned and operated estate in one of the Right Bank’s best terroirs for old-school value, Montagne Saint-Émilion. And we do mean value!
When it comes to the glitz and glamor that Bordeaux is now famous for, the Left Bank reigns supreme, with a truly impressive line up of palatial châteaux and all the pomp and circumstance one could ask for. But, when it comes to viticultural history and special terroir that goes back millenia, it is the Right Bank that takes the cake. It is here, on hills and plateaus that surround the famous villages of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, that ancient Romans first planted vines many centuries before the Dutch helped the Bordelais drain the swamps and plant on the other side of the Gironde river. To put it more simply, the Right Bank had the best terroir for making wine, and arguably still does. If stretch limos and celebrity sightings are what you want, then head for Pauillac and Margaux, but from a “best wine for your buck in the bottle” viewpoint, the villages around Saint-Émilion should be the top destination.
Château Haut-Goujon sits almost at the border of two of the most well-known, and top-performing, “satellite” appellations: Lalande de Pomerol and Montagne Saint-Émilion. Just a couple of miles northwest of Saint-Émilion proper, these appellations have extraordinarily similar terroir, with the only main difference being that they have less limestone, which makes them ready to drink earlier. The 2016 Haut-Goujon, at eight years of age, is in a perfect, prime drinking window.
Mickaël Garde is the fourth generation to lead this small estate, which his great–grandfather founded in 1912. It has been in the same family the entire time, something that is increasingly rare in Bordeaux. Farming is certified sustainable, and work in the cellar is très classique, with fermentation and aging in a combination of concrete vats and new oak barrels. Serve this throwback Merlot/Cabernet blend in a nice Bordeaux stem at a cool 60 degrees. Though it is ready to go, a brief decant will open up the full aromatic array of ripe plums, black currants, violets, cedar, mint, leather, graphite, vanilla bean, and cigar box. It’s got tons of youthful fruit, a rich yet balanced texture, and a meaty, iodine-inflected finish. Even more complexity and tertiary flavors will emerge as it ages gracefully for the next five to 10 years. In other words, this is the complete Bordeaux package…time to stock the cellar!
