If you’ve had the pleasure of driving anywhere in Italy you know that the entire country is covered in vineyards, from the Alpine foothills down to Sicily. The diversity of styles, grapes, and colors is astounding, but the truth is that red wines from Tuscany and Piedmont get the lion’s share of attention, and we’re guilty of that too. But not today! After this morning’s Venetian show stopper, now we’re here to shout until we’re hoarse that when it comes to white wines, Friuili is the heavyweight champion of this vinous nation. To prove it we’ve got a stunner from an iconic family taking the ring. Zuani has crafted a super complex, deep, and mineral laden wine with a beguiling array of aromatics that we’re sure will knock you off your feet, just like it did to us. This blend of the region’s four heavy-hitters– Tocai-Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio–is truly a Super Friulian, with enough firepower to wow even the most skeptical wine enthusiasts. And the kicker is that it does not carry a “super” price, it’s actually a crazy good value. Don’t miss out!
Patrizia Felluga is as close to Friulian winemaking royalty as you get. Her family has been making wine here for many generations and they are responsible for two of the region’s most venerated labels: Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore. At Zuani, Patrizia and her son Antonio have a small winery and several prime parcels of vines to focus on, allowing for a micro-level philosophy that zeros in on the special terroir of Collio. They produce just four wines, two reserves and two blends of the top white grape varieties in the region: The “Vigne” we are focused on today which is a fresh, steel tank only cuvée that highlights the lush fruit and crisp minerality of their vines, and an oak-aged older sibling. By blending the different varieties Patrizia and Antonio are able to focus on the transference of their unique soil, known as Ponca, into their wine and capture the true essence of Collio.
All four grape varieties at Zuani are hand harvested and vinified separately in temperature controlled steel tanks, to enhance the bright fruit and floral aromatics. Patrizia and Antonio then expertly blend them together, after multiple tastings, to achieve a final cuvée that far surpasses the sum of its parts. The exact percentage of each grape is an in-house secret, and changes depending on the vintage, but the goal is always the same: A pitch perfect snapshot of terroir. Ponca, a sandstone and marl subsoil from the Eocene era, lends a pronounced minerality along with a complex perfume, and the micro-climate which is influenced by the Adriatic to the south and the Alps to the north, allows for a long growing season and grapes that ripen perfectly without losing acidity.
While the famous Super Tuscans are pure inventions of the modern winemaking era, Zuani actually has a firm foundation of Collio traditions when it comes to blending grapes, which is a practice that has existed here since the first vineyards were planted. And though three of the four varieties are among the most widely planted international white grapes, their history in Friuli is also many generations old. The Zuani “Vigne” is best served cool, around 50 degrees, in an all-purpose glass. Decanting isn’t necessary, but it might help activate the full spectrum of intoxicating aromatics: White plums, peach skin, yellow apples, lychee, jasmine, honeysuckle, honeyed almonds, green peppercorn, and citrus blossoms all meander around a silky, medium bodied texture with a core of pure, saline minerality. It pairs perfectly with a whole range of dishes, from a simple plate of aged cheeses and charcuterie, to creamy pasta or even a rotisserie chicken. If you are skeptical that aromatic white wines can be both refreshing and complex then this is the bottle that will make you a believer.