We’re back with another killer Sangiovese, this one from Montalcino, and the proposition is this: Would you like to add a true blue-chip collector’s item to your cellar without going anywhere near three figures? This is your wine. As respected as Italian wine has become in the US, especially from appellations like Montalcino, there are still many under-appreciated, under-valued producers like Piancornello lurking around out there. However, based on the rave reviews they’ve gotten from the critics in recent vintages, Piancornello is no longer really under the radar—they seem to be very much on the radar, even if their pricing doesn’t quite reflect that. Experts will tell you to approach 2018s with caution (it was an inconsistent vintage), but that’s what we’re here for: To seek out the overachievers and get them to your door. This ’18 is spot-on in every way, and you can drink some now and lay some down, too. It’s a win-win, so don’t hesitate!
Piancornello epitomizes how Montalcino wines have evolved. For a long time now, Italian wine lovers have tussled over the question of whether “traditional” or “modern” Brunellos are better. So-called traditional styles have tended to be lighter in color (Sangiovese is not an intensely pigmented variety, and Brunello is meant to be 100% Sangiovese, so….) and aged in larger, older oak barrels (resulting in more oxidative notes, hints of cedar and smoke, and less noticeable wood tannins). The more modern styles have typically shown a darker cast, more extract, and a mo