It’s hard to exceed expectations when you’re the standard-setter, but Roland Velich of Moric does exactly that with his “Reserve” Blaufränkisch.
The 2014 Reserve is not merely the most serious Blaufränkisch we've ever tasted, it makes a case for the “nobility” of the variety—meaning, you don’t just judge it based on how it compares to other Blaufränkisch wines, but how it shows next to internationally significant varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. It's a big statement, but this is a wine you could place on a table next to some real heavy hitters and it could very well come out on top.
Hailing from the Burgenland appellation, running along Austria’s border with Hungary southeast of Vienna, with a diverse topography and a mix of soils, more primary rock and slate at higher locations and dense loams in the rolling hills that extend toward the Pannonian plain (a warming influence that is important in getting the late-ripening Blaufränkisch fully mature). Moric’s organically farmed vineyards are home to 50-100 years old vines situated primarily in the Mittelburgenland sub-region
Today’s 2014 represents a selection of the very best of old-vine fruit, undergoing a native yeast fermentation in open-topped oak and steel vats, followed by 24 months of aging in barrels ranging in size from 500 to 3,600 liters. Bottled without fining and filtration and with only a minimal sulfur addition. This wine is soulful, pure and soil-expressive, with a structure reminiscent of Grand Cru Burgundy (even if the fruit skews much darker).
Why You'll Love It:
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In the glass, it's a deep ruby leaning to purple/black, reminiscent of Northern Rhône Syrah.
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The heady aromas also summon the Northern Rhône a bit, with scents of blackberry, pomegranate, grilled herbs, violets, and licorice.
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Because of its appearance, you’ll be expecting a ‘big’ wine, but while the fruit is dark, even black, the wine is medium-plus in body, soft, juicy, balance and firmly structured
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With 10 years of aging, the wine is perfectly aged, primed and ready.
How To Serve It:
- No need to decant. Serve between 60-65 degrees in big Burgundy stems and let the good times roll.
- Pair with grilled or Roasted Lamb, Smoked Duck Sausage or Beef Goulash w/ Einkorn Spaetzle