By now, it’s widely accepted that world-class sparkling wine can be found in practically every region of France. But that doesn’t mean every place is equally good at it; some, like the Jura, consistently produce some of the best non-Champagne sparklers to be found. And occasionally, within those places, you come across a bottle like Jean-François Bourdy’s Crémant du Jura Rosé, which isn’t just an affordable alternative to, but genuinely goes toe-to-toe with elite Champagne bottlings while also speaking loudly of its own unique terroir. Imagine a top-notch Blanc de Noirs Rosé, loaded with red berries and chalky salinity, but with an added twist of rustic minerality and Alpine herbaceousness, and you’re close to the magic contained within a bottle of Bourdy. Oh, and for what it’s worth, the bottle and vibrant magenta-pink hue is downright gorgeous. It’s the perfect way to kick off a special Valentine’s meal, or just a great way to end the day!
The Jura is justly renowned for its stellar white wines and singular reds, but it’s also got quite the history of sparkling production. In-bottle secondary fermentation dates back here to the 17th century, meaning it may have been done in the Jura before it was in Champagne. Regardless, the Crémant du Jura appellation was only created in 1995, in an attempt to buttress the global reputation of a style locals had consumed greedily for centuries. The Jura has all the ingredients to produce truly special sparkling wine, after all: ancient soils of clay and limestone, much like in Burgundy next door, combined high elevations for added grace. Great bottles from the Jura can bear some resemblance to Burgundy in their earthy nuance, but there’s typically a touch more savory, almost smoky complexity to them. That’s as true for its sparklers as it is for its still wines.
Amongst Jura aficionados, Caves Jean Bourdy is famous. They’re maybe the oldest continuously run estate in the region, with an almost six century history of farming vines there. Brothers Jean-Phillipe and Jean-François are now the 15th generation of Bourdys to work this land. Their cellar is filled with evidence of their family’s enduring presence as Jura vignerons: 80-year-old barrels still in use, a stash of bottles dating back to 1865. The brothers do things the old way, with all spontaneous fermentations, very long aging for reds and whites, and no temperature control. They aren’t hidebound by tradition, though. In 2006, they were one of the first Jura producers to achieve biodynamic certification. They continuously tweak their winemaking, embracing shorter macerations and aging regimens for some early-drinking cuvées, and switching to stainless steel fermentation to preserve freshness and structure in their Crémant. It’s 100% Pinot Noir that sees a few hours of skin contact before pressing into steel tanks. After fermentation, the wine rests in bottle for 18 months before being disgorged and given a classic 10g/l dosage.
The Bourdy Crémant du Jura Rosé pours a brilliant carnation pink with an almost magenta core, just a hint of blood orange at the rim, and refined, delicate bubbles. The nose bursts with stony depth and ripe red fruits–pulverized chalk, wet granite, wild strawberries, crushed raspberries, plum skin—alongside savory notes of mushrooms, fennel, and earth. Tasting it blind, you’d think it was Blanc des Noirs Champagne, done saignée style from a great grower-producer, were it not for a layer of meadow flowers and faint smoky tones. The palate is electric, resonating with the chalky minerality before fleshing out into the soft toasty notes. This is truly elite juice; sub-$40 sparkling wine just flat out doesn’t get any better than this. Go deep, grab whatever you can, and revel in the glory of Bourdy!
