Maybe it’s because there is such a vast ocean of more tropical, simple, gooseberry-heavy Sauvignon Blanc out there that we forget that Pouilly-Fumé is the grape’s motherland, where its assertive aromas and fruity, herbaceous nature is balanced by profound minerality. The unique allure of Pouilly-Fumé emanates from the silex (flint) soil, which imparts a delicate smoky (fumé) character to the wines. In the hands of a benchmark domaine like that of Serge Dagueneau, Sauvignon Blanc achieves levels of nobility that are simply not seen anywhere else in the world, save for a handful of properties across the river in Sancerre. This is not just great Sauvignon, it’s world class white wine, and given such the pricing remains downright extraordinary.
Just a few miles down the Loire river from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé has very similar terroir, though the prevailing silex is the subtle difference. The Serge Dagueneau estate totals 23 hectares, with vineyards dedicated almost entirely to Sauvignon Blanc. Their story is inspiring: Léontine Dagueneau, born more than 130 years ago, was a widowed and hard-working woman who had two hectares of vines on a vegetable/livestock farm where she also produced a cheese of local renown. Her grandson, Serge Dagueneau, took the helm in 1971. By the late 1980s, Serge expanded the estate holdings to 11 hectares, all in Les Berthiers, a small hamlet on the road to the nearby village of Saint-Andélain. Today, Valérie Dagueneau, Serge’s daughter (and cousin to the late, great Didier Dagueneau), is the fourth generation to run the domaine, marking a return to its feminine roots. She has been instrumental in maintaining the traditions while making needed improvements–an overhauled cellar and renovated winery that was finished in 2013. Since 2017, all farming has been fully certified HEV3 (High Environmental Value) organic, while biodynamic conversion in selected sites started in 2018.
After a generous growing season, grapes for this 2023 were hand-harvested, with a small percentage macerated on their skins for eight to 12 hours. Fermentation was maintained at a steady, controlled temperature and, once completed, the wine remained on its fine lees for an additional four-month period. After, the wine was separated from the lees and allowed to stabilize for roughly 60 days prior to bottling. In the glass, it displays a pale gold core with greenish-tinged reflections.
In the glass, it displays a pale gold core with greenish-tinged reflections. A vast array of intertwined aromas rush forward, including elderflower, fresh kiwi, young mango, lychee, and dried apricot, with top notes of fennel, acacia, and smoky minerals. The palate is textured and full, carrying rich flavors of quince, spicy pear, honeydew, and lemon zest with an ever-present, hovering echo of salty smoke. A quick decant will allow the full aromatic eruption of this perfectly crafted Pouilly-Fumé while nicely toning down its initial shock of acidity. Pair with a simple spread of soft cheeses and paté, or for a different but still excellent experience try the below recipe for Peruvian inspired ceviche.
