Yesterday we reminded everyone of the great Syrah master Philippe Desbos, but some might ask why are we always focusing on French versions of this wonderful grape? The truth is that few producers outside of the Northern Rhône are capable of capturing the most authentic and alluring expression of Syrah—one of these rare artisans is Drew Family Cellars in Mendocino. Although not yet a household name, we consider Jason Drew one of the most gifted winemakers in California: He has consistently proven to be a reliable blue-chip source for some of the finest and most site-transparent wines from the high-elevation, coastal-influenced Mendocino Ridge. Each wine we’ve tasted pushes the limits of precision, detail, and finesse but his Syrahs always seem to steal the show. True, the “Field Blend” is technically a GSM (and V for Viognier), but really it is a full blown Syrah–reportedly from cuttings of J.L. Chave’s Hermitage parcels, how’s that for authenticity!
By the time Jason started Drew Family Wines in 2000, he had already racked up a stellar resumé, with stints at legendary Napa estates like Joseph Phelps and Corison. In his years of experience at a multitude of northern and central California benchmarks, though, he found that nuance and refreshment were often overlooked in favor of power and ripeness. He and Molly established Drew Family Wines to change that, focusing on cooler sites and more hands-off winemaking. Their winery and home base is located on the Mendocino Ridge, which is perched at 1200+ feet above sea level despite being less than 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The “Field Blend” is sourced from two of the most extreme sites in the appellation, Perli and Valenti Ranch. These were two of the first sites Jason wanted to work with, thanks to soils originating from the Ocean floor of sandstone-gravel with high iron content and quartzite. Individually, these are the sources for Drews’ most celebrated Northern Rhône-esque Syrahs.
In 2017, Jason grafted on new Syrah clones at Valenti, selected from the vineyards of perhaps the greatest living Syrah producer, the legendary Jean-Louis Chave in Hermitage. Alongside the Chave selection, Jason grafted a small portion of Grenache and Mourvedre—varieties long thought unable to ripen in Mendo’s cool climate—to bring higher-toned red fruit and elevated acidity. All the fruit is picked at once, co-fermented with 90% whole clusters and aged for 15 months in neutral French oak.
In the glass, it reveals a classic dark purple moving out to a slightly pink rim. The nose soars with dark-fruited beauty, showing black cherries, cassis, and purple plums alongside menthol and leather. The palate is medium-plus in body, fleshy and seductive, with a bold and inviting texture that snaps together in the finish thanks to high-elevation acidity. The supporting varieties here, especially the Viognier, serve to accentuate and amplify the deep core of Syrah character, leading to a blend that’s just firing on all cylinders right now. Some wines make you think, some wines just make you want to take another sip, but rarely do they do both as well as today’s 2023 “Field Blend.” Decant it for an hour, and enjoy out of Bordeaux glasses at 60-65 degrees. Thanks to the complexity and tension here, I’m inclined to recommend drinking alongside something refined like herb-crusted lamb chops and Lyonnaise potatoes, but this is also right at home next to a charcoal-grilled burger. As perfect for a quiet night in as it is an evening around a fire with friends. Cheers!
