Sancerre is without a doubt one of the most successful appellations for wine in France, and arguably one of the most recognizable fine white wines in the world. However, with success can come complacency, and much of the wine here is now made by some very large producers and/or sold off as private label “Sancerre.” But there are a handful of top notch, small production, family run estates that continue to do right by this small village's reputation. Among the very best of those is Hippolyte Reverdy. With a history going back some 500 years, the tradition here is rock (as in flint and limestone rock!) solid. And yet, the wines they are making now are likely some of the very best they have ever produced. Get ready for pure, mineral magic like only great Sancerre can deliver!
The Reverdy name has a very long history in Sancerre, and Hippolyte’s ancestors have been farming here for at least 500 years, but it was during the postwar era that the estate became established as a high quality, commercial domaine under Hippolyte’s guidance. After his passing and the untimely passing of his eldest sons, the youngest, Michel, was left to run the estate, and his success has been tremendous. Today he is joined by the talented young winemaker Julie Giuard. The winery where they shepard grapes into delicious wine is located in Verdigny, a tiny hamlet a couple miles northwest of Sancerre proper. The appellation covers almost 3000 hectares, and is famous for its three different types of subsoil–caillottes, silex, and terres blanches–that all add subtle nuances to the wines. In Verdigny and with Hippolyte’s vineyards in particular, it is terres blanches, or limestone and clay marl, that dominates. Specifically Kimmeridgian limestone, the same sea-shell laden soil that you find in Chablis, some 50-60 miles to the northeast.
As is always the case with top estates, the most important work at Hippolyte Reverdy is done in the vineyard. This makes harvest and cellar work all the more “simple.” The Sauvignon Blanc bunches are hand-harvested when they reach a perfect balance of sugar and acidity, and then they are pressed immediately, and gently, with a pneumatic press. The must is left to settle for 36 hours before the clear juice is racked off and then fermented in steel tanks. After fermentation, the wine stays in contact with the fine lees for about three months, with occasional stirring, before being bottled in the early spring.
The seashell laden limestone really shines through this textbook, classically framed Sancerre, adding depth, texture, and loads of minerality to the clean, crisp fruit and acid. Serve cool (not ice cold) in all-purpose stems and you’ll get tell-tale notes of white peach, pink grapefruit, lime zest, wet herbs, white flowers, crushed rocks, and just a hint of jalapeño. Though super refreshing, there is plenty of complexity here and that helps make it a perfect white wine for rich, late fall and holiday feasts. Pair with a tower of chilled seafood and you have an instantly glamorous party. Go ahead, check it out!
