Philippe Pain founded Domaine de la Commanderie in 1982. Today he works 50 hectares with his daughters Clothilde and Honorine in the heart of Chinon, where 98% of vineyards grow Cabernet Franc and a little Cabernet Sauvignon.

Their Chenin Blanc vines are survivors. Planted 60-80 years ago on the southern slope of Panzoult, they've resisted decades of pressure to replant with more profitable Cabernet Franc. The vineyard sits on sandy clay over Turonian limestone—warm enough to ripen Chenin properly, limestone-rich enough to give it backbone.

In 2019, the family converted everything to organic farming. No more chemicals, just traditional viticulture that respects the environment and their workers. Hand-harvested grapes go straight to barrel after pressing. Temperature-controlled fermentation, weekly bâtonnage for months, aging on fine lees. The oak is there but subtle—just enough to add texture without masking the Chenin’s crisp and opulently fruity nature.

WHY YOU'LL LOVE IT

Rarer Than Hen's Teeth: 98% of Chinon is red. Finding white Chinon is a rare treat, and strictly for French white wine-loving gourmands. This wine is totally versatile at the table and a joy to drink on its own.

Survivors: Any Chenin Blanc that's lasted up to 80 years surrounded by Cabernet Franc has to be making a hell of an argument for its existence. “Elegance” shows it in every mouthful.

Third-Generation Women Winemakers: Clothilde and Honorine Pain are carrying forward their father's legacy with organic conversion and meticulous barrel work. This is craft winemaking at its finest.

HOW TO SERVE IT

• 48-50°F in white Burgundy stems. The wine needs a little warmth to show its honeyed and lanolin notes.
  

• Perfect with roast game hens, grilled halibut, or soft-ripened goat cheese. Also spectacular with Thai green curry—the wine's texture and intensity stand up to spice.
  

• Drink now through 2033. Old-vine Chenin ages magnificently.