When it comes to the intricately segmented and nuanced terroir of Burgundy, one of the most underrated yet historically appreciated appellations remains Pouilly-Fuissé, nestled in a natural amphitheater of hills in the heart of the Mâcon. In the right hands, these lush, pulse-quickening Chardonnays can compete with, and outclass, many of their Côte de Beaune counterparts. Without question Daniel Barraud has a pair of very talented hands, and that has rocketed his wine into the very top tier of the Mâcon. Compared with higher-priced wines from the Côte de Beaune, the best Pouilly-Fuissé bottlings from small, thoughtful producers like Barraud can offer way more satisfaction for your dollar. Sure, this is “Pouilly” not “Puligny,” but even experts would be hard pressed to tell the difference!
BONUS: We also have tiny amounts of one of Daniel’s smallest production wines, the single vineyard “Les Pommards” from Saint-Veran. It’s another instant classic white Burgundy, and for those who like a little wine education with their holiday meals, serving it next to the Pouilly-Fuissé is a fascinating study in terroir. Click HERE to grab some before they’re gone!
The seeds for the Barraud estate were planted (pun intended!) in 1902 by Daniel’s great-grandfather, Jean-Marie Barraud. Soon after, his son, Joseph, took over and made significant improvements that set up the domaine for its eventual success. By the time the next generation inherited the business, it was thriving, and when their son, Daniel, and his wife, Martine, took over, their goal was simply to maintain the Barraud reputation for quality. They have been aided by their son, Julien, since 2006, and he has taken a passionate and fruitful approach to that mission.
The Mâcon is the southernmost sub region of Burgundy, and Pouilly-Fuissé is the most important appellation here–the vines that grow along this amphitheater-like outcropping of limestone have been recognized as excellent for centuries. Today’s wine comes from four parcels around the famous hamlet of Vergisson, where vines aged between 40 and 60 years grow at the comparatively high altitude of 300-350 meters. The name “Alliance” is a reference to the union of terroirs that go into this wine, combining soils based on limestone scree, fossilized limestone, and clay, in a representative cross-section of Vergisson.
Organic farming is essential to vine health at Domaine Barraud, and all labor is done by hand. Grapes are brought carefully and quickly to the winery, to avoid premature oxidation, and the whole clusters are gently pressed. The juice settles overnight, in temperature-controlled tanks, before being racked by gravity into French oak barrels, 20% new, and fermented with native yeasts. Following 12 months in barrel, “Alliance” spends two months resting in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The combination of high elevations, old vines, and pure limestone terroir provides excellent mineral structure and lift to the warm, plush 2022 vintage. With a little air the inviting nose beckons with fleshy yellow apple, white peach, and green anjou pear, giving way to a plush, supple palate with a racy, mineral core. Although brightened by tangy citrus and a spray of sea salt acidity, “Alliance” also shows a beautiful touch of toasty oak character that works very well with the wine’s weight and structure. After a 30-minute decant, serve this chilled (but not too cold!) in white Burgundy stems around 50 degrees. Match it with strong, soft cheeses or a minimalist classic, like roast chicken with lemon.
