Cru Beaujolais has been an important region for us since almost day one of SommSelect. We love the wines, the value, and above all the connection that they have to the long history and special terroir of this region. But it’s been many years since we offered the most iconic estate in Côte de Brouilly: Château Thivin. Well, I’m going to fix that right now! This property dates back to the 1400s, and the “modern” winemaking tradition to 1887. For almost 150 years now numerous generations, almost all of them named “Claude,” have farmed old vines growing on the steep slopes of Mont Brouilly–an extinct volcano. The combination of elevation and special, blue volcanic rock subsoil lends lift and a distinct savory minerality to the lush, silky Gamay fruit, and produces a soaring and uniquely delicious take on top tier Cru Beaujolais. I can’t think of a more appropriate wine for all that November brings (including, of course, Turkey). Pricing is sharp, stock up!
When Zaccharie Geoffroy purchased the Château Thivin at an auction in 1877 he knew exactly what he was getting. This is the oldest estate built on Mount Brouilly–an extinct volcano that rises precipitously in the heart of the Beaujolais region–dating back to the 15th century. The history in these walls is impressive, but the distinct terroir and the history of viticulture that lies just outside them was arguably the most valuable part of the estate. Zaccharie passed the estate to his son Claude who expanded their vineyard holdings, and then his son, the second Claude, became an integral part of the Cru Beaujolais community following the two world wars. The estate helped establish the Maisons de Beaujolais, and it also became a popular destination for French intellectuals and celebrities in the post war era, including the novelist Colette who wrote fondly of her visit. Today it is Claude’s grandnephew, also Claude, his wife Evelyne, and their son Claude-Edouard (now there’s an original name!) at the helm. They are able stewards and protectors of this special terroir.
Most of the best vineyards in the ten “Crus” of Beaujolais are growing on the region's famous pink granite, with bits of limestone, clay, and sandstone sprinkled in. But the best vineyards of the Côte de Brouilly (and Thivin’s are among the very best) grown over a substrate of almost pure, blue volcanic rock. This unique geology combines with the steep slopes to produce a Gamay that has smoky, earthy, meaty notes to pair with the classic red fruits and dried flowers. The differences are subtle, but if you line up all ten crus (fun tasting!) you would see Côte de Brouilly as distinct from even its surrounding neighbor, “regular” Brouilly.
The Geoffroy clan farm their 50 plus year old vines using fully organic methods, and everything is hand-harvested by necessity given the 48% grade slopes. After harvest, the whole bunches are fermented, undergoing full to partial carbonic maceration, and then pressed into neutral oak foudres (large, often oblong, oak casks) where it ages for several months before bottling. Serve this top tier Beaujolais at a cool 55-60 degrees in good Burgundy stems after a brief decanting. While it’s young you’ll get a rush of red fruits–cherries, raspberries, pomegranate, cranberries–that is balanced by notes of dried rose, orange preserves, wild herbs, and hints of smoked meat. With time the “pinotization” will bring about additional savory notes of fallen leaves and dried mushrooms. And I do recommend putting a few bottles away for five plus years as Château Thivin is one of the most affordable, age-worthy reds that I know of! Serve with roasted game hens, crisp duck breasts, or a large Thanksgiving feast!
